You measure a horse for a saddle primarily by checking the length of its back and assessing the shape of its withers and topline. This guide makes the process simple and quick. Proper measurement is key to ensuring your horse is comfortable and sound. Getting the right fit saves money and prevents pain for your equine partner. This process is vital when you are looking for the best saddle size for my horse.
Why Getting the Saddle Size Right Matters
A poorly fitting saddle causes significant problems. It can lead to sore backs, behavioral issues, and even long-term lameness. The saddle needs to sit correctly on the horse’s back muscles. If it is too long, it can pinch the loins. If it is too short, it puts too much weight on the shoulder area. This is why learning equine saddle measurement techniques is so important.
Essential Tools for Horse Measurement for Tack
Before you start, gather a few simple tools. You do not need fancy equipment. Good horse measurement for tack relies on accuracy with basic items.
- Flexible Tape Measure: A standard sewing tape works best. Avoid stiff metal tapes.
- A Helper (Optional but Recommended): An extra set of hands makes holding the tape steady easier.
- A Straight Edge or Ruler: Used to ensure the tape is level across the horse’s back.
- A Non-Fading Marker or Chalk: To mark key points on the horse (use gently).
- A Full-Length Mirror or Camera Phone: To check the visual alignment of the saddle placement later.
Step 1: Preparing Your Horse for Measurement
Preparation ensures you get accurate numbers. Do not skip these basic steps.
Grooming the Measurement Area
Brush the horse’s back well. Dirt and thick winter hair can throw off your measurements. You need direct contact with the skin or very short hair.
Keeping the Horse Still
Ask your helper to stand quietly beside the horse. Keep the horse in a relaxed, natural standing position. Both front and hind legs should be square under the body. A tense or moving horse will give you wrong readings.
Step 2: Measuring the Back Length (The Crucial Measurement)
The most critical part of measuring horse for correct saddle is finding the correct length. This determines the size of the saddle tree flaps and panel contact area. This is often called the back length measurement for saddle fitting.
Locating the Starting Point: The Wither
The measurement starts at the base of the wither. This is the highest point of the horse’s back, just behind the neck.
- Identify the Wither Base: Feel for the bone structure where the neck joins the back. This point is where the saddle should begin to contact the back, but usually, the saddle tree stops just behind this point.
- Mark the Wither Base (Gently): If you must mark it, use a tiny dot of chalk right at the lowest point of the wither depression.
Locating the Ending Point: The Last Rib or Loin End
The saddle must not extend past the last rib onto the loins. This area is weak and flexible. Placing weight here causes major pain.
- Feel for the Last Rib: Run your hand down the horse’s side, behind the barrel. You will feel the ribs end.
- Identify the End Point: For most English saddles, you measure to the spot directly above where the last rib meets the spine. For Western saddles, you often measure slightly further back, but never past the point where the back musculature starts to slope downward towards the croup.
Taking the Back Length Measurement
- Start the Tape: Place the zero end of the tape measure at the wither base mark.
- Run the Tape: Keep the tape measure held flat and taut along the horse’s spine. Do not let it dip into the dips or arch over the curves.
- Measure to the End Point: Read the measurement where the tape meets the point above the last rib.
Result Interpretation: This measurement dictates the maximum size of the saddle’s bearing surface. A typical riding horse measures between 16 and 19 inches in this area. This number helps you narrow down choices from a saddle size chart for horses.
Step 3: Assessing the Wither Shape (The Gauge of Fit)
The wither shape dictates the tree width. This is where many riders go wrong. How to measure a horse’s back for a saddle is not just about length; it’s about contour.
Why Wither Shape Matters
The wither is the highest point. If the saddle gullet (the channel underneath the pommel) is too narrow, it pinches the wither. If it is too wide, the saddle bridges and rocks.
Visual Assessment of Withers
Stand to the side of the horse. Look at the wither area.
- High Withers (Pointed): These horses need a saddle with a significant arch in the gullet (often marked as ‘W’ or ‘High’ in custom fittings).
- Low Withers (Flat or Rounded): These horses have withers that barely rise above the backline. They need a flatter gullet to prevent the saddle from slipping forward or rocking.
- No Withers (Table Top): Very rare, often seen in broad-backed breeds like some Drafts or Baroque types. These require an almost flat tree.
Measuring Wither Height (For Advanced Fitting)
While often done by feel, some advanced methods use templates. A quick way to gauge the space needed is by checking the distance above the spine.
- Place your fist vertically between the horse’s wither spine and the tape measure laid flat across the top of the wither.
- If your fist fits easily, you have high withers. If you struggle to place your fingers between the spine and the tape, the withers are flatter.
This visual check informs your choice of gullet width, which is a separate measurement often confused with the back length.
Step 4: Determining the Topline Curve (The Rocker)
The curve of the horse’s back—how much it dips or rises between the shoulders and the croup—is called the “rocker.” This affects how the saddle panels sit flat.
The Rule of the Back Length Measurement
The back length measurement you took in Step 2 is your primary guide here.
- If the horse has a very long, flat back, you need a longer saddle tree (even if the overall length measurement is average) to ensure the back support extends far enough back.
- If the horse has a very short, heavily muscled back (like some Quarter Horses), you must use a shorter saddle to avoid hitting the loins.
Using the Horse Wither to Tail Measurement for Saddle Consideration
While the horse wither to tail measurement for saddle is useful for blanket sizing, it is less reliable for saddle fitting length alone. Saddles should never sit on the loin area above the last rib, regardless of the total length to the tail. Always rely on the wither-to-last-rib measurement for saddle length, cross-checking it against the horse’s overall conformation.
Step 5: Deciphering Saddle Size Charts for Horses (Putting Numbers to Sizes)
Once you have the back length, you can consult a saddle size chart for horses. These charts correlate your measurement (in inches) to the nominal tree size (often in centimeters or letter designations).
English Saddle Sizing
English saddle sizes (e.g., 16.5″, 17.0″, 18.0″) refer to the length of the seat from the button (where the pommel meets the cantle) to the center of the stitching at the front of the cantle.
| Seat Size (Inches) | Approx. Horse Back Length (Inches) | Typical Rider Size |
|---|---|---|
| 15.5″ – 16.0″ | Up to 17″ | Small Adult / Youth |
| 16.5″ – 17.0″ | 17″ – 18″ | Average Adult |
| 17.5″ – 18.0″ | 18″ – 19″ | Tall/Larger Adult |
| 18.5″ + | 19″ + | Very Large Rider |
Key Point: The seat size relates to the rider, but the tree width (which relates to the horse’s back) must match the horse first. A 17-inch seat on the wrong tree width is useless.
Western Saddle Sizing
Western saddles are measured by the seat size (15″, 16″, 17″) similar to English saddles, reflecting the rider’s inseam and thigh width. The crucial fit component is the Gullet Width.
| Western Gullet Size | Description | Typical Horse Type |
|---|---|---|
| Standard (Approx. 6.5″) | Moderate curve | Narrower, high-withered horses |
| Semi-Quarter Horse (Approx. 7″) | Flatter, wider gullet | Average build, slightly sloping shoulders |
| Full Quarter Horse (Approx. 7.5″ – 8″) | Wide, very flat gullet | Broad-chested, mutton-withered horses |
| Draft/Wide (8″+) | Very broad and deep | Heavy breeds |
Step 6: Checking the Gullet Clearance (The Wither Test)
This step confirms your determining proper saddle size for the width aspect. You must see how the saddle sits before you cinch it up.
The “Bridge Test” (A Quick Check)
- Place the saddle gently on the horse’s back, centered carefully.
- Have a helper hold it steady.
- Try to slide your fingers easily down the gullet channel, front to back.
- Too Narrow: You cannot fit more than one or two fingers down the channel, or the pommel presses hard against the spine.
- Too Wide: The saddle sits high on the horse’s shoulders and does not settle down onto the back muscles. There is a large gap underneath the pommel.
- Just Right: You can slide three or four fingers comfortably down the channel without touching the spine, and the weight seems evenly distributed along the panels.
This check directly relates to how to measure a horse’s back for a saddle regarding contour, not just length.
Using Templates for Precision
For the most accurate fit, especially if the horse is difficult to fit, templates are used. These involve tracing the wither contour onto a piece of cardboard or specialized tracing material. This template is then compared directly to the angle of the saddle tree gullet.
Specialized Considerations for Different Disciplines
The measurement approach can slightly change based on the saddle type you require.
English Saddle Fitting Nuances
English saddles need precise placement. They are shorter, meaning they rely more heavily on the wither clearance and panel contact. If the horse has pronounced muscles over the shoulder, you need a saddle with more shoulder relief cut-outs.
Western Saddle Fitting Nuances
Western saddles are longer and heavier. They require generous support across the ribs. If you use a Western saddle on a horse with low withers, you must use specialized padding or select a very wide tree to prevent the saddle from rocking forward onto the shoulders.
Common Measurement Mistakes to Avoid
Many riders make simple errors that lead to ill-fitting tack. Avoid these pitfalls when performing horse measurement for tack:
- Measuring a Moving Horse: Always measure when the horse is standing square and relaxed.
- Not Brushing Thoroughly: Dirt and mats hide the true shape of the back.
- Letting the Tape Arch: The tape must stay flat along the spine line. Arching leads to an artificially short measurement.
- Focusing Only on Seat Size: The tree width (gullet) is far more important for the horse’s comfort than the seat size (which is for the rider).
- Mistaking Loins for Back: Never let the measurement extend past the last rib onto the soft loin area. This is a critical error in measuring horse for correct saddle.
Adjusting Measurements for Pads and Blankets
Your base measurements tell you the required tree size. However, the saddle pad or blanket thickness will slightly alter the fit on the day.
- Thick Pads: If you use a very thick, fluffy orthopedic pad, it might slightly decrease the available gullet clearance. If your horse fits perfectly with a thin pad, it might become too tight with a thick one.
- Saddle Trees “Break In”: Some modern synthetic or wood trees have slight flex. New saddles often feel slightly snugger than those that have been used for months. Always test-fit with your usual riding gear.
A Final Check: The Post-Ride Assessment
The true test of determining proper saddle size happens after you ride.
- Cool Down: After removing the saddle, run your hands over the horse’s back.
- Check for Heat: Excessive heat or sweating in specific spots (especially along the spine or the edges of the panels) means pressure points exist. A properly fitting saddle distributes pressure evenly, resulting in only light, overall warmth.
- Look for White Hairs: White hairs appearing in the coat along the spine or under the panels are permanent signs of rubbing and severe pressure. If you see these, the saddle is hurting the horse.
If you notice any of these signs, you need to re-examine your saddle fitting guide measurements or consult a professional saddle fitter.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Can I use a horse blanket size chart to determine saddle size?
No. Blanket size charts use the horse wither to tail measurement for saddle area, which is much longer than the area the saddle needs to cover. Blankets need to cover the hips; saddles must stop at the last rib.
Q2: How often should I re-measure my horse for a saddle?
You should re-measure your horse every six to twelve months, especially if the horse is young (still growing or filling out), has recently changed diet/exercise dramatically, or is gaining/losing weight. Muscle changes significantly affect the fit.
Q3: What if my horse is short-backed? Will a short saddle work?
A short saddle is necessary for a short-backed horse to prevent it from rocking onto the loins. However, you must ensure the seat size is still appropriate for you, the rider. This often means finding a very short-skirted, custom-built saddle.
Q4: My tape measure says 18 inches. What size saddle should I look for?
For an 18-inch back length measurement (wither base to last rib), you are looking for a saddle with a bearing surface length in that 18-inch range. For English saddles, this usually corresponds to an 18-inch seat size, ensuring the tree width matches your horse’s gullet requirements. Always refer to the specific brand’s saddle size chart for horses.
Q5: What is the difference between measuring for an English and a Western saddle?
The main difference is the focus. For English, the wither clearance and panel contact are paramount due to the shorter length. For Western, the gullet width and the overall width to support the heavier rigging and longer skirt are the primary concerns, along with ensuring the tree fits the horse’s breadth across the ribs.