Measuring a horse for a saddle is vital for the animal’s comfort and soundness. To measure a horse for a saddle, you primarily need to focus on the length of the back area where the saddle rests and the shape of the back, often related to the wither height and overall horse conformation assessment. Accurate measurements ensure you select the right gullet width and panel length, which are key components in saddle fitting measurements.
Why Accurate Horse Measurement Matters for Saddles
A poorly fitting saddle is a major cause of pain and behavioral issues in horses. If the saddle is too long, it hits the loins, causing soreness. If it is too short, it pinches the shoulders, restricting movement. Getting the right fit starts with precise measurements. This guide will walk you through the equine saddle measurement techniques needed for success.
The Dangers of Incorrect Saddle Sizing
When a saddle doesn’t fit well, several problems can arise. The horse might resist being saddled or buck under the rider. Long-term, improper fit can cause muscle atrophy, back soreness, and even lameness. Good fit promotes better movement and a happier horse.
Essential Tools for Taking Precise Horse Measurements
Before you start, gather the right tools. Precision is key when taking precise horse measurements. You cannot rely on guesswork.
- Flexible Tape Measure: A soft, cloth or fiberglass tape measure is best. Avoid stiff metal tapes that bend awkwardly over curves.
- A Helper (Optional but Recommended): Having someone hold the horse steady makes things much easier.
- A Straight Edge or Ruler: Used to ensure the tape measure lays flat against the horse’s back.
- A Marker or Chalk: To mark key points on the horse’s coat (use only if necessary and remember to brush it off later).
- Note Pad and Pen: To record all measurements immediately.
Step-by-Step Guide to Measuring the Horse’s Back Length
The most critical measurement for saddle sizing is the bearing surface length. This determines the required length of the saddle panels. We need to find the area where the saddle should sit—from just behind the shoulder blade to the start of the loin area.
Measuring Horse Back Length
This measurement dictates the length of the saddle needed. A saddle that is too long can restrict the horse’s loin muscles, leading to pain.
- Locate the Shoulder Point: Stand beside the horse. Feel for the point of the shoulder blade. This is the bony protrusion at the front of the shoulder.
- Mark the Withers: Place a hand just behind the highest point of the withers. This is the top center point where the neck meets the back.
- Identify the End Point (The “Last Rib”): Move your hand down the horse’s barrel until you feel the last rib curve underneath the body. The saddle should end just before the soft, unsuspended area of the loin begins. This is usually one to two hand-widths in front of the horse’s hip bone (tuber coxae).
- Measure the Distance: Have your helper stand at the shoulder point. Place the tape measure at the center of the wither (the highest point). Run the tape straight down the spine area (but slightly to the side of the crest) to the point determined in step 3. Keep the tape flat against the horse’s body. Do not curve it excessively over the spine.
Best Practice Tip: Some saddle makers advise measuring from the point of the shoulder, tracing a line straight back to the last rib where the saddle should sit. It is wise to compare this length with the measuring horse back length based on wither height.
| Measurement Type | Typical Result Range (Inches) | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Short Back (Pony/Draft Pony) | 14 – 16 inches | Often seen in breeds like Welsh Ponies. |
| Average Back (Most Sport Horses) | 17 – 19 inches | Common for Quarter Horses, Warmbloods. |
| Long Back (Some Warmbloods/TB) | 20+ inches | Requires a longer saddle panel. |
Interpreting Back Length for Saddle Size
The measured length corresponds closely to the seat size of the saddle you need, but more importantly, it confirms the required length of the tree and panels. A general rule is that the saddle should sit on the longest, strongest part of the back, usually covering about 20-25% of the horse’s back length.
Assessing Width and Shape: Determining Proper Saddle Tree Size
The width measurement determines the determining proper saddle tree size (gullet width). This is crucial because the tree must bridge the horse’s spine without pressing down on the sensitive vertebrae or resting on the shoulder muscles as they move.
Horse Wither Height Measurement and Slope
While wither height itself doesn’t directly dictate the tree width, it informs us about the horse’s build and how pronounced the wither is. A horse with a high wither often needs a deeper gullet cutout.
- Locate the Wither Apex: Find the highest point of the shoulder blades where they meet at the top of the neck.
- Measure Height (Optional but Useful Context): Measure vertically from the ground up to this point. This gives context to the horse’s overall frame.
Measuring the Gullet Area (Width Assessment)
We are looking for how wide the back is where the saddle tree sits, often described as the angle between the “bars” of the tree.
Method 1: The Wither Tracing Method (Best for Advanced Fitters)
This method uses a flexible tool to trace the slope of the back near the girth area.
- Prepare the Area: Brush the hair flat. The horse must be standing square and relaxed.
- Use a Wither Gauge or Template: Specialized tools exist to capture the contour. If you do not have one, a flexible ruler or even a bent wire can approximate the shape.
- Capture the Shape: Place the tool just behind the shoulder, where the saddle’s tree points rest. This reveals the curve—whether the back is flat, moderately curved (a “medium” shape), or steeply angled (a “pronounced” shape).
Method 2: The “Hand Span” Approximation (For Preliminary Selection)
This is less precise but offers a quick way to gauge if you need narrow, medium, or wide fittings.
- Position: Stand beside the horse. Place one hand flat on the horse’s back, just behind the scapula (shoulder blade).
- Span: Place your other hand further back, about four inches away, simulating where the tree points might sit.
- Feel the Slope: Is there a significant gap between your hands and the horse’s back? If your hands barely touch the horse, you likely need a narrow tree. If there’s a large gap or the hands don’t meet the horse firmly, you might need a wide tree.
Note on Tree Types: Trees come in fixed sizes (narrow, medium, wide, extra-wide) or adjustable models. Your measurement helps match the horse’s shape to the correct fixed size or setting. This is the core of determining proper saddle tree size.
Comprehensive Saddle Size Guide for Horses
A saddle size guide for horses involves more than just back length and width. Seat size (the area for the rider) and flap length are also important, though these relate more to the rider than the horse’s physical fit.
Flap Length Measurement
The flap should cover the area where the horse’s girth sits and extend far enough back to accommodate the rider’s leg without interfering with the shoulder movement or hitting the loins.
- Shoulder Check: Measure from the center of the wither down the crest of the neck to the point where the shoulder meets the barrel. This tells you how much forward movement the flap can have before hitting the shoulder.
- Loin Check: Ensure the back length measurement allows enough space so the rear of the saddle flap does not cross the start of the short, sensitive loin area.
If you have a very short-backed horse, you must select a saddle with shorter, perhaps Spanish-cut, flaps, even if the seat size is large for the rider.
Tree Width Equivalents (General Guidelines)
Different saddle makers use different sizing scales (e.g., inches, numbers 1–5, or letters A–D). Always check the specific brand’s conversion chart.
| Width Description | Typical Tree Measurement (Approx.) | Conformation Type |
|---|---|---|
| Narrow (N) | 6.5 inches or less | Sharp, high withered horses (e.g., many Thoroughbreds). |
| Medium Narrow (MN) | 6.75 – 7.0 inches | Moderately built horses. |
| Medium (M) | 7.0 – 7.5 inches | Average build, gently sloping backs. |
| Medium Wide (MW) | 7.75 – 8.0 inches | Rounder backs, starting to fill out. |
| Wide (W) | 8.0 – 8.5 inches | Broad-shouldered, heavily muscled horses (e.g., many Quarter Horses). |
| Extra Wide (XW) | 8.5 inches + | Very broad or flat-backed horses (e.g., heavy drafts). |
Advanced Conformation Assessment for Saddle Fit
Horse conformation assessment goes beyond simple tape measurements. Experienced fitters look at how the horse moves and carries itself.
Spine Mobility and Flexibility
A horse with a stiff back will behave differently under an ill-fitting saddle than a supple one.
- Testing for Stiffness: Gently run your hands along the horse’s topline while the horse is standing still. Does the horse react by tensing up, pinning ears, or moving away?
- Movement Observation: Watch the horse walk and trot before the saddle is placed. Are the strides even? Does the back swing freely?
Shoulder Angle
The angle of the shoulder dictates how much room the front of the saddle needs.
- Steep Shoulder: A very upright shoulder requires a saddle with more generous clearance under the front panels (or a slightly flatter tree angle) so the saddle doesn’t pinch when the shoulder moves forward. This relates directly to how much the shoulder moves beneath the saddle area during the stride.
The Importance of the Wither Area in Fitting
The wither is a critical area. A saddle tree must clear the wither completely. If the tree sits on the highest point of the wither, it causes immediate pain and restricts movement. This is why horse wither height measurement provides context.
Wither Clearance Check
When the saddle is placed on the horse (before the girth is tightened):
- Place two or three fingers lightly between the saddle’s gullet arch and the horse’s spine at the wither.
- If you can easily slide two fingers through, you likely have good clearance.
- If you struggle to fit one finger, the gullet may be too narrow or the saddle too low in the front.
Adjusting Measurements for Different Saddle Types
Different saddles require slight variations in measurement approach.
Dressage Saddles vs. Jumping Saddles
- Dressage Saddles: These sit further back on the horse’s back, close to the loins, to keep the rider centered over the balance point. Therefore, the back length measurement is critically important to ensure the rear of the saddle clears the loin area.
- Jumping Saddles (Close Contact): These sit slightly further forward to accommodate the rider’s shorter stirrup length and forward seat. You might need a slightly shorter saddle panel overall compared to a dressage saddle on the same horse.
Synthetic vs. Traditional Leather Saddles
Synthetic saddles are often lighter and less forgiving. If the saddle fitting measurements are slightly off with a synthetic saddle, the horse may react more noticeably than with a leather saddle that molds slightly over time.
Troubleshooting Saddle Fit Issues Using Measurement Data
If you have a known fit problem, reviewing your measurements can help diagnose the cause. This is crucial for troubleshooting saddle fit issues.
| Symptom | Likely Measurement Issue | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Saddle pinches the shoulder on movement. | Tree is too narrow or the saddle is too long (hitting the shoulder pad). | Increase gullet size or check back length compatibility. |
| Rider feels pressure or bouncing at the back of the saddle. | Saddle is too long, hitting the loins/kidney area. | Use a shorter saddle or re-measure the usable back length. |
| Horse sweats heavily in parallel strips under the panels. | Uneven pressure, usually meaning the center of the tree bridge is too high or the tree is too narrow in the front, causing weight to shift to the outer edges. | Adjust tree width or check panel flocking symmetry. |
| Horse avoids flexing the back or tucking the hindquarters. | Tree is bridging (not making full contact) or is too tight across the ribs. | Check the angle measurement; consider a wider/more curved tree. |
Best Practices for Saddle Measurement
Adhering to best practices for saddle measurement ensures repeatable and reliable results every time you buy or check a saddle.
Environment Matters
Always measure the horse in the same way:
- Standing Square: The horse must stand evenly on all four legs on level ground. If a horse is leaning or standing on a slope, all length and width measurements will be skewed.
- Relaxed State: The horse should be relaxed. A tense horse will tense its back muscles, which can make the back appear narrower or flatter than it is naturally.
Measuring Over a Blanket or Pad
When taking initial measurements, measure directly on the horse’s coat after a quick grooming. However, remember that the final saddle fit must account for the thickness of the saddle pad you intend to use. A thicker pad effectively narrows the gullet slightly and changes the angle of the tree relative to the back.
Record Keeping
Keep detailed records of all your measurements. If you switch between different saddle brands, having the original measuring horse back length and width assessment allows you to quickly reference brand-specific sizing charts.
Deciphering the Role of the Rider’s Size
While the horse’s measurements determine the tree and panel fit, the rider’s size dictates the seat size (e.g., 17″, 17.5″, 18″).
A rider who is too large for a saddle will sit too deeply, putting excessive weight on the panels and potentially forcing the tree into the horse’s back, regardless of how accurately you measured the width. Always ensure the rider’s inseam and weight are compatible with the intended seat size.
Seat Size vs. Horse Size
- A 15-inch seat size usually fits a pony.
- A 17-inch seat size is standard for an average adult on an average horse.
- An 18-inch or larger seat size is for larger riders or saddles designed for extra room (like some endurance or trail models).
Conclusion: The Path to the Perfect Fit
Accurate measurement is the foundation of good horsemanship when it comes to equipment. By focusing on the length of the bearing surface and carefully assessing the shape needed to bridge the spine effectively, you move toward determining proper saddle tree size. Regularly re-measuring your horse, especially after periods of intense work, weight change, or maturity, ensures you keep pace with your horse’s changing physique and maintain optimal comfort for both partners. A well-fitted saddle starts with precise data derived from careful equine saddle measurement techniques.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How often should I remeasure my horse for a saddle?
A: You should remeasure your horse at least once a year, or whenever you notice signs of saddle discomfort (like back soreness or resistance). Significant weight gain or loss, muscle building from new training regimens, or simple aging can change the back shape, making old measurements obsolete.
Q: Can I use my old saddle measurements if I switch brands?
A: Not reliably. Different saddle brands use different standards for gullet width (e.g., an “M” in one brand might equate to an “MW” in another). You can use your tape measurements (length and width profile) as a baseline reference, but you must always consult the new brand’s specific saddle size guide for horses or get a professional assessment.
Q: What is the significance of measuring the horse’s girth circumference?
A: Girth circumference is used primarily for purchasing girths (cinches), not for saddle tree size. However, a very large girth circumference often correlates with a wider, rounder barrel, suggesting the horse may need a wider tree width.
Q: Does the horse need to be completely bare for accurate measurement?
A: Yes, for the initial, most critical measurements (back length and wither contour), the horse should be bare. Any blanket or pad changes the shape and contour of the back muscle profile, leading to inaccurate results for the tree fitting process.
Q: If the saddle fits perfectly in length but pinches the wither, what is the issue?
A: If the length is correct but the wither is pinched, the issue is insufficient wither clearance or gullet depth. This means either the tree width is too narrow for the horse’s shape, or the saddle’s head is cut too low relative to the horse’s back contour. This requires adjusting the tree size or shimming the saddle appropriately.