What is the correct way to measure a horse for a saddle? The correct way to measure a horse for a saddle involves looking at several key areas: the length of the saddle needed, the curve of the back (rock), and the width of the back where the saddle will sit (gullet width). Getting these measurements right is vital for your horse’s comfort and performance.
Getting the perfect fit for your horse’s saddle is one of the most important tasks in horse tack sizing. A poorly fitting saddle can cause pain, stop your horse from moving well, and even lead to serious injury. This detailed saddle fitting guide will walk you through every step of measuring horse for saddle so you can confidently select the right gear. We will explore saddle measurement techniques for both English and Western styles, helping you in determining correct saddle size and choosing the right saddle size.
Why Accurate Saddle Measurement Matters
A saddle that fits well helps your horse move freely. When the saddle pinches or rests on the wrong parts of the back, the horse will resist. This resistance shows up as bucking, refusing jumps, or simply being stiff. Proper measurement ensures the weight you carry is spread out evenly across strong muscles.
A good fit prevents damage. Rubs, white hairs, and sore spots are clear signs of a bad fit. Over time, a bad fit can cause muscle loss or even changes to the spine. Proper saddle measurement is an investment in your horse’s long-term health.
Pre-Measurement Steps: Getting Ready
Before you grab a tape measure, you need to prepare your horse and gather your tools. This preparation is a key part of sizing a horse saddle.
Tools You Will Need
Gather these items before you start:
- Stiff tape measure (not cloth, as it stretches).
- A blanket or thin pad.
- A helper (if possible) to hold the horse still.
- A long, straight edge (like a level or a yardstick).
- Paper and a pen to record data.
Preparing Your Horse
Your horse must be standing square. This means all four legs are directly under the horse, forming right angles at the joints.
- Horse Condition: Measure your horse when it is at its normal weight. Weight gain or loss changes back shape quickly.
- Hair Length: For the most accurate measurement, clip the hair in the area where the saddle sits. Long hair can throw off measurements, especially the rock measurements.
- Padding: Always measure with the thin layer of padding you normally ride with. If you use a thick saddle pad, include it in your reference points.
Measuring for English and Western Saddles: Key Differences
While the basic goal is the same—finding comfort for the horse—the areas we focus on slightly differ based on saddle type. Western saddles are larger and place weight over a longer area. English saddles are more compact.
| Feature | English Saddle Focus | Western Saddle Focus |
|---|---|---|
| Tree Size | Pommel width and bar angle. | Gullet width and rock/length. |
| Length | Seat size is critical; tree length matters for wither clearance. | Skirt length impacts the area of weight distribution. |
| Primary Goal | Wither clearance and balanced seat. | Even weight distribution over a wider area. |
Step 1: Determining the Saddle Length (Contact Area)
This measurement tells you how much of your horse’s back the saddle will touch. Too long, and the saddle rests on the loin, which is weak and causes pain. Too short, and the weight piles up on the powerful back muscles, causing soreness.
English Saddle Length Measurement
- Locate the Withers: Find the highest point of your horse’s shoulder blades. This is the start of the area you measure.
- Locate the End Point: Place your straight edge perpendicular across the back, just behind where the last rib ends. This spot is usually where the saddle must end.
- Measure: Measure the distance between these two points along the horse’s back. This gives you the maximum contact length.
Western Saddle Length Measurement
Western saddles cover more area. The measurement focuses on the area where the skirts will sit.
- Start Point: Find the wither point, similar to the English saddle.
- End Point: For Western saddles, measure back to the point just before the saddle begins to bridge or sit too far back onto the lumbar area (the “saddle bridge” zone). Usually, this is about 18 to 22 inches back from the wither point, but always check your horse’s specific length.
Tip: When sizing a horse saddle, remember that the actual tree size will be slightly shorter than the measured contact length to allow for padding.
Step 2: Assessing Wither Clearance and Gullet Width
This is arguably the most critical part of proper saddle measurement. The gullet is the channel underneath the saddle that sits over the spine. It must never touch the spine or press down on the nerves running alongside it.
Measuring the Gullet (Width)
The gullet measurement relates directly to the saddle tree size measurement. Different manufacturers use different sizing conventions (Narrow, Medium, Wide, or specific numbers), but they all start with the horse’s anatomy.
- Find the Lowest Point: Have your helper gently pull the skin up just behind the shoulder blade where the saddle will sit. Find the lowest point of the dip where the back begins to flatten out for the saddle area.
- Measure Across: Place your straight edge across the horse’s back at this lowest point, ensuring it is perfectly level (use a level if you can).
- Measure the Gap: Measure the distance from the edge of the backbone down to the inner edge of the shoulder muscle on both sides.
- Determine Width: The crucial measurement is the distance between the tops of the horse’s back muscles at that point. You are measuring horse for saddle width. Use this measurement to compare against saddle tree templates. A saddle tree needs to be wide enough that the bars sit on the muscle, not the bone, and high enough that the gullet clears the spine by about one inch.
Note: This measurement is often tricky. Many professional fitters use specialized “saddle tracing” tools that create a physical template of the horse’s back profile.
Evaluating Wither Shape (Rock and Slope)
The shape of the wither area impacts how the bars sit.
- High Withers: Require a saddle with a deep U-shaped gullet and might need special pads to lift the tree off the highest points.
- Flat Withers (or Swayback): Require a wider, flatter gullet to prevent rocking. If the tree is too narrow, it digs into the large shoulder muscles.
Step 3: Checking the Curve of the Back (Rock)
The horse’s back is not flat; it has a curve, often called “rock” or “sweep.” If your saddle has too much rock for a flat-backed horse, the front and back of the tree will dig in. If the saddle is too flat for a heavily rocked back, the middle will dig in.
The String Test (A Simple Saddle Measurement Technique)
This test gives you a rough idea of the back’s contour:
- Have your horse standing square.
- Take a piece of string or a flexible tape measure.
- Place one end at the highest point of the wither.
- Gently lay the string along the spine, following the natural contour of the horse’s back, until you reach the area where the saddle ends (the point determined in Step 1).
- Straighten the string and measure its length.
- Now, measure the straight distance (as the crow flies) between the two points.
If the contoured string length is significantly longer than the straight measurement, your horse has a pronounced “rock” or curve. This dictates the required curve of the saddle tree size measurement.
Step 4: Confirming Saddle Fit with a Trial Saddle
Measurements only get you close. Confirming saddle fit requires putting a saddle (ideally one with a flexible or known tree) on the horse and observing how it sits. This is the final step in choosing the right saddle size.
A. Wither Clearance Check (The Hand Test)
- Place the saddle on the horse without a pad first (to see the bare tree contact).
- Gently push down on the saddle pommel (front) and cantle (back).
- Try to slide your hand into the gullet channel along the spine. You should be able to slide your hand in easily, but the saddle bars should not wobble or rock excessively.
- If you can only slide in two fingers, the gullet might be too narrow or the bars are too flat.
B. Flocking and Bar Contact Check
Once you add your regular saddle pad:
- Ride the horse briefly at the walk and trot (if safe, or longe them).
- Dismount and immediately check the underside of the saddle.
Signs of Good Fit:
- The flocking (wool or foam stuffing) feels evenly compressed under the bars.
- There are no hard pressure points or creases in the pad.
- The hair under the saddle is smooth, perhaps slightly damp from sweat, but not matted or rubbed raw.
Signs of Poor Fit (Red Flags):
- Bridging: The middle of the saddle is sitting high, and only the front and back touch the horse. This means the tree is too flat or the saddle is too short.
- Dishing/Hollowing: The middle of the saddle bars is sinking in, creating pressure points along the spine. The tree might be too rockered or the bars too narrow.
- Shoulder Restriction: The front of the saddle seems jammed into the back of the shoulder, preventing the horse from swinging its shoulder fully forward. This usually means the saddle is too narrow or too far forward.
Advanced Saddle Fitting Concepts: Tree Angles and Bars
The tree is the internal skeleton of the saddle. Its angle and shape determine how the weight is distributed. Determining correct saddle size means matching the tree to the horse’s back angle, not just the width.
Tree Angle
The angle of the bars where they meet the pommel must match the angle of the horse’s shoulder slope.
- If the tree angle is too narrow for the slope, the saddle tips forward and pinches the shoulders.
- If the tree angle is too wide, the saddle tips backward, putting pressure on the loins.
Bar Shape (The Rock Continuum)
Saddles are built on a spectrum of curve:
- Flat Trees: Best for breeds with very straight backs (like some Quarter Horses or older drafts).
- Moderate Trees: Standard for most average horses.
- Semi-Quarter Horse (or heavily rocked) Trees: Designed for horses with pronounced dips behind the withers (like Arabians or Friesians).
If you are using a custom or semi-custom saddle, saddle tree size measurement often involves templates that map out these angles precisely.
Specific Considerations for Different Disciplines
While the fundamentals of measuring horse for saddle remain, discipline requirements change the specifics of what you measure.
Measuring for a Western Saddle
Western saddles are designed for long hours of work, often covering more ground than English saddles.
- Skirt Size: The size of the skirt affects how far back the weight is distributed. A heavy rider on a short-backed horse needs smaller skirts to prevent the skirt edge from hitting the flank/loin area.
- Seat Size: While the seat size is for the rider, a larger seat often comes with a larger skirt, which influences the overall weight distribution profile on the horse.
- Horn Angle: The horn angle must allow the front of the saddle to sit correctly without tilting too far forward onto the shoulder.
Measuring for an English Saddle
English saddles demand precise fit due to their smaller surface area.
- Panel Type:
- Foam/Synthetic: Less forgiving; exact measurements are essential.
- Wool Flocked: Can be adjusted significantly by a skilled saddler to fit minor variations in the horse’s back shape.
- Panel Placement: The panels (the padded areas underneath) must align perfectly with the long muscles running parallel to the spine. If the panels are too narrow, they create ridges of pressure.
When to Call a Professional Saddle Fitter
Even with the best saddle measurement techniques, some horses present unique challenges. You should consult a certified fitter if:
- Your horse is consistently showing signs of back pain, regardless of the saddle you try.
- Your horse is changing shape due to age, heavy work, or fitness gains/losses.
- You are purchasing a high-end, non-adjustable tree saddle.
- You are unsure how to interpret the results of your proper saddle measurement.
Professional fitters use advanced tools like pressure mapping systems and digital back scanners. These tools provide objective data to help in confirming saddle fit far beyond what simple hand measurements can achieve. They help you match the horse’s profile to the exact specifications of the tree design.
Recording Your Data for Future Reference
To make this entire process repeatable, keep a dedicated notebook for your horse’s measurements. This log becomes a crucial part of managing your horse’s tack inventory.
Sample Horse Measurement Chart
| Measurement Item | English Saddle (Inches) | Western Saddle (Inches) | Notes / Desired Tree Size |
|---|---|---|---|
| Contact Length (Wither to Loin End) | 17″ | 20″ | Needs medium length tree. |
| Gullet Clearance (At Lowest Point) | Needs 1.5″ clearance | Needs 1.75″ clearance | Aiming for a “Medium Wide” tree. |
| Wither Height (High/Low/Flat) | High, pronounced dip | High, pronounced dip | Requires significant rock/flare. |
| Straight Back Length (String Test) | 15″ | 18″ | Confirms significant back curve. |
| Rider Seat Size Needed | 17.5″ | 16.0″ | Rider preference/needs. |
Keeping this record helps when you sell a saddle or buy a new one, ensuring you start the process of choosing the right saddle size with solid data.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Measuring Horse Saddles
Q: How often should I measure my horse for a saddle?
A: You should measure your horse at least twice a year, especially if the horse is growing, gaining muscle, or aging. A sudden change in workload also warrants a re-measurement.
Q: Can I use the measurements from my old, ill-fitting saddle to buy a new one?
A: No. An ill-fitting saddle’s measurements reflect what didn’t work. You must take new physical measurements of the bare back to ensure the new saddle fits correctly.
Q: What is the difference between gullet width and tree width?
A: Gullet width refers to the open space under the saddle that goes over the spine. Tree width refers to the width of the wooden or synthetic frame (the bars) that contacts the horse’s back muscles. Both must be correct for a good fit.
Q: Do I need to measure the horse differently if it’s cold-backed?
A: Yes. If your horse is cold-backed or very sensitive, it’s best to have a professional fit the saddle using templating materials that account for muscle tension and stiffness that might be present even when standing square.
Q: What if my horse has prominent withers but a flat back behind them?
A: This is common. You need a saddle with good wither clearance (a deep gullet, often found in “high wither” or “A-frame” trees) but with bars that have very little rock to maintain contact along the flatter mid-back. This complexity is why confirming saddle fit with a trial is essential.