Sizing a saddle to a horse is vital for the horse’s health and comfort. A correctly sized saddle ensures the rider’s weight spreads evenly across the horse’s back. This guide will walk you through the steps for determining saddle size and achieving the best fit.
Why Correct Saddle Sizing Matters So Much
A saddle that does not fit well causes real harm. It can lead to pain, resistance when riding, and long-term back issues for your horse. Many riders focus only on the stirrup length for themselves. However, the fit on the horse’s back is the most crucial part. This article acts as your saddle fitting guide to avoid these common problems.
Common Problems from Poor Fit
When a saddle pinches or creates pressure points, the horse shows clear signs. Recognizing these signs early is key to preventing serious injury.
- White spots or hair loss along the spine or ribs.
- Bucking or refusing to move forward under saddle.
- Girthiness or flinching when you try to saddle up.
- Soreness felt when you run your hands along the topline after riding.
- Shoulder restriction, causing the horse to move unevenly.
These uncomfortable saddle signs signal that an immediate adjustment or new saddle is needed.
First Steps: Assessing Your Horse’s Back
Before looking at any saddle, you must closely examine your horse. This part involves equine conformation assessment. You need to know the shape and length of your horse’s back.
Measuring the Horse Back Measurement
Getting accurate horse back measurement data is essential for buying or adjusting a saddle. You will need a flexible tape measure and a helper.
How to Measure the Bearing Surface
The bearing surface is the area where the saddle will actually sit. It runs from just behind the shoulder blade to the first rib behind the saddle area.
- Locate the Shoulder Point: Feel for the bony point of the horse’s shoulder.
- Locate the “Saddle Wither”: This is the spot just behind where the front of the saddle normally sits, usually before the main wither bone structure.
- Measure the Length: Lay the flexible tape along the horse’s back, tracing the curve. Measure from the point just behind the shoulder to where the back starts to slope down toward the loin. This gives you the approximate length the saddle needs to cover.
Assessing the Back Shape (Flat vs. Curved)
Horses have different back shapes. Some are relatively flat; others have a pronounced curve (like a swayback or a very rounded barrel).
- Flat Backs: Often suit saddles with flatter panels.
- Curved Backs: Need more depth in the saddle panels to prevent bridging (where the center of the saddle lifts off the back).
Evaluating the Wither and Spine Clearance
Spine clearance is non-negotiable. The saddle must never press on the spine or wither bones.
- Wither Height: Note how high the withers are relative to the back. High withers need more clearance space.
- Spine Check: Gently run your fingers along the horse’s back when the horse is relaxed. Feel for any boney lumps or sensitivity. The saddle gullet must clear this area completely.
Deciphering Saddle Tree Size: The Gullet’s Role
The saddle tree size is the framework of the saddle. It dictates how the saddle sits across the horse’s width. This is often the most confusing part for new buyers. The gullet width selection directly relates to the tree size.
What is the Gullet?
The gullet is the channel running down the center of the saddle, sitting over the horse’s spine. It is designed to offer clearance for the vertebrae.
Matching Gullet Width to Horse Shape
The width of the gullet must match the width of the horse’s back at the wither. Too narrow, and it pinches the spine. Too wide, and the saddle tips forward or down on the shoulders.
| Horse Type | Wither Shape Description | Suggested Gullet Range (General) |
|---|---|---|
| Narrow/Swayed | Very defined wither, narrow top line. | Narrow or Semi-Narrow |
| Average/Mutton Wither | Gentle slope, most common shape. | Medium or Full |
| Broad/Flat Back | Little definition, wide, muscular shoulder base. | Wide or Extra Wide |
Crucial Note: Gullet sizes are NOT standardized across brands. A “Medium” in one brand might be a “Wide” in another. Always check the specific manufacturer’s sizing chart or use templates.
The Bridge Test (Checking for Gullet Fit)
A simple field test helps check the fit of the tree width:
- Place the saddle (unmounted, no pad) on the horse’s bare back.
- Lift the pommel (front) slightly. Can you easily slip your fingers between the pommel arch and the wither?
- If you can only fit one or two fingers, the gullet might be too narrow or the saddle is too low in the front.
- If you can slide your whole hand under, it might be too wide or bridging slightly.
Gauging Panel Contact and Balance
Once the tree width seems correct, you must check how the panels (the padded sections underneath the tree) contact the horse’s back muscles.
Panel Contact: Full Contact is Best
The goal is full, even contact between the panels and the horse’s back muscles. This spreads the rider’s weight effectively.
- Bridging: Occurs when the center of the saddle lifts, and only the front and back of the panels touch. This concentrates weight onto two small points.
- Swayed: Occurs when the panels dip excessively in the middle, usually because the horse has lost muscle tone or the saddle is inherently too flat for a curved back.
Assessing Saddle Balance
A properly balanced saddle should sit level when the horse is standing square on flat ground.
- Too high in the front: Often means the tree is too wide or the cantle is too low. This throws the rider backward.
- Too low in the front (dipping): Usually means the tree is too narrow or the horse is heavily muscled in front of the shoulder. This forces the rider onto the forehand.
Selecting the Correct Seat Size (Flap Length and Seat Depth)
The seat size, which relates to rider comfort, is separate from the tree size, which relates to the horse’s comfort. However, both must be correct for a successful fit.
Determining Rider Size
Seat sizes are usually measured in inches (e.g., 16.5″, 17″, 18″). This measurement runs from the front of the seat (where the pommel meets the seat) to the back of the cantle.
Rule of Thumb for Seat Sizing:
Your seat size should allow for about one to two fingers’ width of space between your rear and the cantle when your stirrups are properly adjusted. If you are between sizes, it is often safer to go up, especially if you ride with a thicker winter coat or want room for growth.
Flap Length and Leg Position
The flap length determines where your knee and thigh naturally rest.
- Too Short: Your knee will hit the front of the flap, forcing your leg forward.
- Too Long: Your foot will drop too far forward, putting pressure on your hip flexors and making it hard to keep your heel down.
The correct fit allows your leg to fall naturally, with your knee resting gently under the padded section of the flap.
Practical Application: The Role of the Saddle Pad
The saddle pad sizing is also important, though it is secondary to the tree fit. The pad sits between the saddle and the horse.
Pad Function
The pad protects the horse from sweat and dirt. It also provides a small amount of cushioning and helps absorb minor imbalances that the saddle cannot perfectly correct.
Sizing the Pad
- Length: The pad should be slightly shorter than the saddle’s bottom edge. It should never stick out past the back edge of the saddle skirt or flap, as this rubs the skin.
- Width: The pad should extend slightly beyond the points of the saddle tree underneath—usually about half an inch to an inch on each side—to ensure the flocking or foam underneath the panel is making contact.
Warning: A thick pad can hide minor ill fits. If you use a very thick pad, you might mask a gullet that is slightly too narrow, which can lead to long-term muscle damage. Use the thinnest, best-quality pad that still meets your cleaning and protective needs.
Advanced Fitting Considerations: Adjustability and Professional Help
Sometimes, a ready-made saddle just won’t work perfectly. This leads us to adjustable options and the need for professional involvement.
Adjustable Saddles and Their Benefits
Modern saddles offer varying degrees of adjustability.
- Adjustable Gullet Plates: Many modern English saddles use interchangeable gullet systems (like changeable plates or bolts). This is excellent if your horse’s back changes shape over time due to fitness, weight gain, or aging.
- Adjustable Flock/Wool: Wool-flocked saddles can be taken to a saddler to have the flocking redistributed or added to the panels. This allows for fine-tuning the panel contact.
When to Call a Professional Saddle Fitter
While this guide provides the basics, nothing replaces an expert eye. If you are buying a new saddle or if your horse is showing persistent pain, invest in a certified fitter.
A professional provides an custom saddle fitting service that considers dozens of minute factors you might miss, such as:
- Muscle atrophy patterns.
- Rider position influences on the saddle.
- Dynamic fitting (how the saddle sits when the horse is moving).
They use specialized tools, often involving pressure mapping or computerized measurements, to ensure the best possible outcome.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Saddle Sizing
What is the difference between English and Western saddle fitting?
English saddles generally use a fixed tree size measured by gullet width (N, M, W) and rely on the panel flocking for fine adjustments. Western saddles use a more defined “bar” system (often ranging from “F” or “R” for regular to “X-Wide”) that covers a larger bearing surface. Western trees are often built to accommodate broader, flatter backs common in stock-type breeds.
Can I use a saddle pad to fix a tree that is too narrow?
No, you absolutely cannot. Using a thicker pad to compensate for a narrow gullet is dangerous. The pad will compress unevenly, and the tree itself will still pinch the horse’s structure and muscle tissue. If the gullet is too narrow, you need a wider gullet plate or a different saddle.
How often should I check my saddle fit?
You should check the fit at least twice a year, or whenever you notice a significant change in your horse’s fitness level or weight (e.g., coming out of winter rest or after starting a new intense training program). A horse’s back muscles can change rapidly with work.
What is “rocking” in a saddle?
Rocking refers to the front or back of the saddle moving up and down independently while you ride, usually because the saddle is bridging or the tree is too straight for a curved back. This creates a jarring, uncomfortable ride for both horse and rider.
How do I measure my horse for a Western saddle seat size?
Western seat size is determined by measuring the rider’s thigh length from the cantle edge to the knee joint when seated. However, for the horse, you are primarily concerned with the bar angle (tree width) and the amount of surface area coverage, not the rider seat measurement itself.
What does it mean if my saddle bridge on a horse with high withers?
If a saddle bridges on a horse with high withers, it often means the gullet is too narrow for the width of the back behind the withers, or the saddle is too short for the horse’s back length. The front of the tree rides high on the wither structure, and the middle section lifts off the back muscles. This usually requires a saddle with a deeper gullet arch or a longer bearing surface.