Can I put boots on a horse myself? Yes, you can put boots on a horse yourself. Many horse owners learn this skill easily. It helps keep your horse safe during work or turnout. This guide will show you the simple steps for applying horse boots safely and correctly.
Why Use Horse Boots?
Horse legs face many risks. Boots offer vital horse leg protection. They guard against bumps, scrapes, and strains. When to use horse boots depends on the activity. They are essential for high-impact sports like jumping or barrel racing. They also help during turnout in rough pastures.
Selecting Horse Boots
First, you need the right gear. Types of horse boots vary a lot. Each type serves a different purpose. Choosing the correct boot is the first step to proper horse leg protection.
Common Types of Horse Boots
| Boot Type | Main Use | Key Feature |
|---|---|---|
| Splint Boots | Everyday riding, light work. | Protects the cannon bone area. |
| Sports Medicine Boots | Intense work, support. | Offers more support to tendons and ligaments. |
| Bell Boots (Overreach Boots) | Preventing interference injuries. | Covers the heel bulbs and coronary band. |
| Turnout Boots | Protection in the field. | Often softer, designed for long wear. |
| Therapeutic Horse Boots | Recovery, managing swelling. | Often use magnets, clay, or specialized materials. |
Therapeutic horse boots are special. They are not for riding. They help heal injuries or reduce leg puffiness when the horse is resting in its stall.
Prepping for Booting a Horse’s Legs
Before booting a horse’s legs, good preparation matters. A clean, calm horse makes the job much easier.
Getting Ready
- Gather Supplies: Have all boots ready. Make sure you have four matching sets.
- Clean the Legs: Brush the horse’s legs well. Dirt stuck under a boot can rub the skin raw. This is very important for applying horse boots.
- Check for Injury: Look closely at the legs. Do not apply boots over cuts or swelling. If you see a problem, call your vet first.
- Keep Calm: Work in a quiet area. A nervous horse moves more. Move slowly and speak softly.
How To Put Boots On A Horse: Step-by-Step Guide
Fitting horse boots correctly is crucial. Boots that are too tight can cut off blood flow. Boots that are too loose will slip and cause rubbing or fail to protect.
Step 1: Position Yourself
Stand on the same side as the leg you are working on. Stand next to the horse’s shoulder or elbow. This gives you good access to the leg. Never stand directly in front of or behind the horse’s legs while you work.
Step 2: Lifting the Leg
Ask your horse to lift the leg. Use gentle pressure. Lift the leg up toward your chest, not outward. Support the leg with your thigh. Keep your grip gentle but firm. The horse must be comfortable holding the leg up.
Step 3: Applying Horse Boots to the Lower Leg (Splint or Sports Boots)
Most boots wrap around the cannon bone.
- Align the Boot: Place the main body of the boot just below the knee (or hock) and just above the fetlock joint. The protective padding should cover the vulnerable splint bone area.
- Wrap the Straps: Start with the bottom strap (closest to the hoof). Pull it snug. You should be able to fit one finger snugly between the strap and the leg.
- Work Upwards: Move to the next strap, moving up the leg. Pull each strap about the same tightness. Overlap the straps slightly.
- Final Strap Check: The top strap should secure the boot well, but not push down on the knee or hock area.
Pro Tip for Securing Horse Leg Wraps: Think of it like a firm handshake—secure, but not painful. Check that the straps do not touch each other if possible, as this can cause the straps to snag and loosen.
Step 4: Applying Bell Boots (Overreach Boots)
Bell boots protect the back of the hoof and the sensitive heel bulbs. They stop the hind hoof from striking the front heel.
- Positioning: Slide the bell boot over the hoof. The bottom edge should sit slightly below the hairline or coronary band.
- Fit Around the Pastern: The top edge should fit snugly around the pastern bone area. It should not pinch the cannon bone.
- Check the Fit: The bell should not twist. If it twists easily, it is too big. If it pinches the ankle area, it is too small. Bell boots should be roomy enough for movement but snug enough not to fall off.
Step 5: Checking the Fit on All Legs
After applying horse boots to one leg, check the fit again before moving on. Flex the horse’s leg slightly. Does the boot move too much? Is there rubbing anywhere? Repeat the process for the remaining three legs.
Special Considerations for Different Boot Types
Fitting horse boots correctly depends on the boot style you choose.
Sports Medicine Boots vs. Splint Boots
Sports boots offer more support. They often have three or more straps. Make sure the supportive straps wrap around the tendons correctly. They should fit tightly enough to prevent the tendon from over-extending or twisting under stress.
Therapeutic Horse Boots Application
Therapeutic horse boots often require specific placement. Read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. These boots might use magnets or specialized wraps. They are usually applied when the horse is resting, often with clean, dry legs. They are designed for a looser, yet consistent, pressure to aid circulation or cooling.
Removing Horse Boots Safely
Just as important as putting them on is taking them off correctly. Removing horse boots safely prevents injury and keeps the equipment in good shape.
- Undo the Top Strap First: When taking off splint or sports boots, always undo the top strap first. This releases tension gradually.
- Unwrap Slowly: Unfasten the straps one by one, moving down the leg. Do not rip them off.
- Inspect the Legs: After removal, quickly check the horse’s legs. Look for any rubs, heat, or swelling caused by the boots. If you see a rub, treat it gently.
- Clean the Boots: Brush off any mud, hair, or debris from the inside and outside of the boots before storing them. Dirt left on the boots will cause rubbing next time.
When to Use Horse Boots: Activity Guide
Deciding when to use horse boots maximizes their benefit and prevents unnecessary wear on the equipment.
| Activity Level | Recommended Boot Type | Key Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Light Hacking/Trail Riding | Splint Boots or Wraps | Protection from sticks or accidental self-inflicted taps. |
| Arena Work (Flatwork) | Splint Boots or Light Sports Boots | Protection from minor interference from the rider’s leg or tools. |
| Jumping/Cross Country | High-Quality Sports Boots | Maximum impact protection and tendon support. |
| Turnout (Rough Paddock) | Turnout Boots or Heavy Duty Bell Boots | Guards against running into fences or stepping on heels. |
| Stall Rest/Recovery | Therapeutic Horse Boots | Aids circulation or reduces inflammation as prescribed. |
Common Mistakes in Booting a Horse
Many issues arise not from the boot itself, but how it is applied. Avoid these common pitfalls when booting a horse’s legs.
Applying Too Tight
This is the most dangerous error. Very tight straps can cause nerve damage or restrict blood flow. This is especially true in hot weather when legs swell slightly. Always follow the “one finger snugness” rule.
Improper Placement
If the boot sits too low, it won’t protect the tendons during flexing movements. If it sits too high, it can interfere with the knee or hock joints when the horse bends. Always ensure the padding aligns with the splint bone.
Using the Wrong Boot
Using thin jumping boots for turnout is a mistake. They are not built to withstand a horse rolling or pawing. Similarly, using heavy support boots for a light trail ride can cause the leg to overheat and sweat excessively.
Booting Over Dirt
As mentioned, never skip cleaning. Dirt acts like sandpaper under the boot. This friction causes sores, especially in the sensitive area behind the knee or hock.
Maintaining Horse Leg Protection Gear
Good care extends the life of your boots. This ensures reliable horse leg protection for years to come.
Cleaning Routine
- Daily: Brush off loose dirt and hair after every use.
- Weekly/As Needed: Wash velcro straps thoroughly. Sticky velcro won’t hold tight. Many boots can be hand-washed or machine-washed on a gentle, cool cycle (always check the label). Air dry them completely. Do not put them in a machine dryer, as heat damages neoprene and elastic.
Storage
Store boots flat or hanging, not balled up in a heap. If boots get wet, let them dry before storing them in a tack trunk. Storing damp equipment encourages mildew growth.
Advanced Look at Securing Horse Leg Wraps (Polo Wraps)
While boots are pre-formed, securing horse leg wraps (such as polo or standing wraps) requires more skill. These are often used for support or shipping.
How to Apply a Polo Wrap
- Padding First: Always place a soft, thick layer of cotton bandage or standing wrap underneath the polo wrap. This padding is what truly absorbs impact and prevents rubbing.
- Start Low: Begin wrapping just above the coronary band, leaving the pastern joint slightly exposed (unless you are using a specific wrap designed to cover it).
- Even Tension: Wrap with consistent, firm tension. Each turn should overlap the previous one by about half.
- Finish High: Finish the wrap just below the knee or hock. Secure the velcro tabs firmly. The goal is support, not tourniquet effect. If the leg feels cold or the horse seems uncomfortable, the wrap is too tight.
Fathoming the Need for Support During Exercise
When booting a horse’s legs for exercise, we are often aiming for both impact protection and mechanical support.
High-performance horses work their legs hard. Fast stops, tight turns, and high jumps strain the delicate structures of the lower leg—tendons and suspensory ligaments. Sports boots help minimize excessive strain by stabilizing the structures during movement. This stability reduces the risk of sprains or strains during intense activity.
Different Boots for Different Disciplines
Selecting horse boots must match the discipline. A dressage horse needs protection from its own hooves (interference), so bell boots might be key. A barrel racer needs heavy-duty protection against sharp stops and turns, making sturdy sports boots essential.
- Trail Riding: Minor scrapes are common. Splint boots are often enough.
- Endurance Riding: Boots must breathe well to prevent overheating and chafing over long distances. Ventilated sports boots are preferred.
- Driving: Horses pulling carts risk hitting their own legs often. Robust shin guards or heavy splint boots are necessary.
Troubleshooting Common Booting Issues
Sometimes the process doesn’t go smoothly. Here are quick fixes.
Problem: The bell boot keeps flipping over the top of the hoof.
Fix: The bell boot is likely too large. Try a smaller size or check if the neck opening is positioned correctly around the fetlock.
Problem: The horse pulls its leg away when I touch it near the hock.
Fix: The horse may have a sensitive spot or a past bad experience. Approach slowly. Use a calm voice and reward stillness with a treat or soft word before proceeding with applying horse boots. Make sure you are not pressing on any sore areas.
Problem: The straps won’t stay fastened after a short ride.
Fix: Clean the velcro thoroughly. If the velcro is worn out, the straps need replacing. Old, worn straps are a major failure point when securing horse leg wraps.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I leave horse boots on overnight?
A: Generally, no, you should not leave most riding boots on overnight. Riding boots (splint, sports) are designed for active work. Leaving them on for long periods can cause the leg to sweat excessively, leading to skin irritation, sores, or fungal issues. Only therapeutic horse boots designed for stall rest should be worn continuously as directed by a professional.
Q: Should I wrap or boot my horse for turnout?
A: This depends on the field. If your paddock is muddy or full of sharp stumps, boots offer better protection against impact. If the ground is soft and safe, some owners prefer no boots to allow the legs to move naturally. However, if your horse frequently strikes itself, boots are still recommended for turnout.
Q: How tight should I make the straps when fitting horse boots correctly?
A: The general rule for fitting horse boots correctly is snug but not tight. You should be able to slide one finger between the strap and the horse’s leg comfortably. If you can fit two fingers, it’s too loose. If you cannot fit one finger, it is too tight and could restrict blood flow.
Q: Do I need boots for flatwork training in the arena?
A: Yes, it is highly recommended. Even in a controlled arena, horses can stumble, step short, or accidentally strike their opposing legs during tight turns or collected work. Splint boots are usually sufficient for basic flatwork to provide basic horse leg protection.
Q: What is the difference between boots and wraps?
A: Boots are pre-formed pieces of protective gear, usually with built-in padding and Velcro closures. Wraps (or bandages) are long strips of fabric that require skill to apply evenly and securely. Boots are generally quicker for daily use, while wraps are often used for shipping or specialized support.