You get rid of horse flies by using a mix of methods. These include physical barriers, traps, sprays, and good hygiene around your property. We will explore the best ways to stop these biting pests now. Horse fly bites can hurt and spread disease. Dealing with them quickly is important for people and animals.
Why Horse Flies Are Such a Big Problem
Horse flies are more than just an annoyance. They are aggressive biters. Only female horse flies bite. They need blood to make their eggs. Their bites are painful because they use blade-like mouthparts to slice the skin open. They then lap up the blood. This slicing action makes them different from mosquitoes.
Horse flies prefer warm, sunny days. They often attack large animals like horses, cattle, and dogs. Humans are also targets, especially when near water or tall grass where they breed. Getting rid of them means tackling all stages of their life cycle.
Deciphering the Horse Fly Life Cycle
To fight horse flies, you must know how they grow. Their life has four main steps: egg, larva, pupa, and adult.
Egg Stage
The female fly lays hundreds of eggs. She lays them in masses on plants near standing water. This usually happens in spring or early summer.
Larval Stage
When eggs hatch, small larvae drop into the water or wet soil below. These larvae are hunters. They eat small insects, snails, and worms in the muck. This stage can last from a few weeks to many months.
Pupal Stage
The larva crawls out of the wet area. It turns into a pupa in drier soil nearby. This stage is like a cocoon phase.
Adult Stage
The winged adult fly emerges ready to find a blood meal. Adults live for several weeks. They are strong fliers.
To effectively repel horse flies, we need methods that target several of these stages. Stopping the adults is key, but controlling breeding sites helps too.
Immediate Action: Trapping Adult Horse Flies
Horse fly traps are a very effective tool for eliminating horse flies. These devices mimic the things that attract the flies in the first place.
How Traps Work
Most successful traps use heat and visual cues. Horse flies look for dark, moving objects that look like large animals.
- Color and Shape: Traps often use a dark, round object, sometimes inflated like a giant black ball. This looks like a host animal to the fly.
- Heat Source: A solar collector or dark material heats the ball. Flies are drawn to this warmth, thinking it is an animal.
- Collection: Once the fly lands on the heated object, it tries to bite. It then crawls up sticky panels or falls into a capture bucket below.
Types of Horse Fly Traps
| Trap Type | How It Works | Best Use Case | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Biting Fly Trap (HBT) | Large, dark ball attracts flies; they crawl up into a funnel trap. | Pastures, large areas where animals graze. | Highly effective but can be expensive to set up. |
| Sticky Traps | Large sticky surfaces, often black or blue, placed near problem areas. | Smaller yards, near patios, or around barns. | Need frequent replacement as they fill up quickly. |
| CO2 Traps | Release carbon dioxide to mimic breath. | Areas with severe infestations, often professionally managed. | Very effective but costly and require regular refills. |
Placing traps correctly is crucial. Put them where flies rest or travel—usually near animal areas or sunny edges of wooded lots.
Chemical Control: Sprays and Larvicides
When you need fast results, chemical options are powerful horse fly control methods. Use these responsibly, following all label directions.
Best Horse Fly Spray Options
For immediate relief, sprays that offer quick knockdown and residual protection are best.
Personal Repellents for Humans
If you are working outside, you need protection. Look for sprays containing DEET or Picaridin. These chemicals confuse the flies’ sensors.
Area Sprays
Products containing pyrethrins or permethrin can be sprayed on vegetation where flies rest. This kills flies that land on treated surfaces. Do not spray directly on animals unless the product is specifically labeled for that use.
Permethrin Application
Permethrin is great for treating boots, clothing, and gear. It lasts a long time, offering lasting protection against getting rid of biting flies when you are in their territory.
Larvicides for Breeding Grounds
Since larvae live in wet soil or mud, treating these areas can cut down future adult populations.
Use approved larvicides (often containing Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis or Bti) in stagnant water sources where flies might breed. Bti is a natural bacterium that targets only mosquito and fly larvae. This makes it a safer choice near water bodies.
Natural Solutions for Repelling Flies
Many people prefer natural horse fly repellent options, especially around horses and pets. These often focus on scent confusion.
Essential Oils
Certain essential oils confuse flies. They mask the scents that attract flies to warm-blooded hosts.
- Geraniol: Often found in citronella products. It has shown good results in some studies.
- Cedarwood Oil: A strong scent that many flies dislike.
- Peppermint Oil: Its sharp smell can deter many insects.
When using essential oils, you must apply them often. They do not last as long as synthetic chemicals. Dilute them heavily before applying to skin or coat.
Natural Insect Repellent for Horses
Horses suffer the most from these pests. Natural insect repellent for horses should be safe for daily use.
Look for commercial sprays containing:
* Lemon Eucalyptus oil (PMD content).
* Vinegar-based solutions (Apple Cider Vinegar).
* Garlic supplements (when ingested, the smell can deter some flies, though efficacy varies).
Apply these repellents lightly before turning horses out to pasture, focusing on legs, neck, and belly.
Diatomaceous Earth (DE)
Food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) can be used in dry areas where pupae might be found, like bedding or dry soil near water edges. DE is a fine powder made of fossilized algae. It scratches the exoskeleton of insects, causing them to dehydrate. Make sure it stays dry to work.
Prevention: Stopping Flies Before They Start
The best defense against horse flies is preventing horse flies from setting up home nearby. This means managing moisture and habitat.
Water Management is Key
Remember, horse flies need moist ground for their larvae.
- Drain low-lying, muddy areas around barns or pens.
- Fix leaky water troughs or pipes immediately.
- Avoid overwatering lawns, especially in low spots.
If you have a pond or drainage ditch that cannot be dried up, consider stocking it with mosquito-eating fish or treating the edges regularly with Bti products.
Habitat Modification
Horse flies like to hide in brush and tall grass between feeding times.
- Keep grass mowed short in pastures and yards.
- Trim back heavy brush along fence lines or property edges.
- Remove piles of debris, old manure piles (which attract other flies that horse flies might feed on), or compost heaps far from living areas.
Using Physical Barriers
For horses, fly sheets and masks are essential tools.
- Fly Sheets: Lightweight mesh sheets cover the body, blocking flies from landing. They are crucial during peak fly season.
- Fly Masks: These protect the sensitive eyes and face from biting attacks.
These barriers are not meant to kill flies, but they stop painful horse fly bites while you implement other control methods.
Advanced Pest Management Techniques
For serious, widespread infestations, more complex strategies might be needed. These often combine several methods for maximum effect.
The Role of Beneficial Insects
Nature provides its own controls. Certain parasitic wasps (like Spalangia species) attack the pupae of biting flies, including horse flies. Releasing these beneficial insects can naturally suppress populations over time. This is a long-term strategy, not an instant fix.
Professional Pest Control Services
If home methods fail, call in experts. Professionals can access stronger, restricted-use chemicals for spot treatments on vegetation that you cannot buy. They can also conduct thorough site surveys to pinpoint hidden breeding areas.
Manure Management
While horse flies breed in wet soil, decaying organic matter attracts many other flies. Good manure management reduces the overall fly load on your property. Haul manure away frequently, or compost it properly to heat it up, which kills many pest larvae inside.
Comparing Control Methods: Quick Reference Table
Choosing the right tool depends on the situation. Here is a simple comparison to help you decide which methods to use for getting rid of biting flies.
| Method | Speed of Action | Cost | Environmental Impact | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Traps (HBT) | Medium (takes time to attract and fill) | High initial cost | Low | Large outdoor areas, long-term reduction. |
| Chemical Sprays | Fast (quick knockdown) | Medium | Moderate (use carefully) | Treating specific vegetation or emergency situations. |
| Natural Repellents | Slow/Requires constant reapplication | Low to Medium | Very Low | Daily use on animals and people. |
| Habitat Modification | Very Slow (long-term strategy) | Low | Very Low | Fundamental, ongoing property management. |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Do horse flies bite at night?
A: Generally, no. Horse flies are diurnal, meaning they are active during the day, especially when it is warm and sunny. They usually stop biting once the sun sets or temperatures drop significantly.
Q: Are horse fly bites dangerous to humans?
A: While usually not life-threatening, horse fly bites can be very painful. They can cause allergic reactions in some people. More seriously, they can transmit certain diseases (like tularemia or Lyme disease, though less commonly than ticks). The main danger is secondary infection from scratching the open wound.
Q: How far can a horse fly fly to find a meal?
A: Horse flies are capable flyers. They can travel several miles from their breeding grounds, though they usually stay within a mile or two of wet, swampy areas where they developed.
Q: What is the single best way to repel horse flies from my porch?
A: For a porch area, the single best method is a combination approach: Use sticky traps near the edges of the porch to catch incoming flies, and treat the surrounding shrubs with a residual pyrethrin spray to kill resting flies. Keep the immediate area around the porch clear of standing water.
Q: Can I use mosquito dunks (Bti) for horse flies?
A: Yes, Bti products, often sold as “mosquito dunks,” can be used. While primarily marketed for mosquitoes, Bti also targets many types of fly larvae. Apply these to any slow-moving or stagnant water sources near your property where you suspect the larvae might be developing. This aids in eliminating horse flies at the source.