What is a DIY horse fly trap? A DIY horse fly trap is a simple device you build yourself to catch and kill biting flies like horse flies and stable flies that bother your horses. Building your own fly trap is a great way to save money and control pests naturally. Many folks look for natural fly control for horses because they worry about harsh chemicals. This guide shows you how to make the best DIY fly trap for horses using things you probably already have. We will cover several methods for trapping horse flies naturally and effectively.
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Why Horse Flies Are a Big Problem
Horse flies (like Tabanus species) are more than just a nuisance. They bite hard and deep to draw blood. This blood meal is needed for female flies to lay eggs. These painful bites cause horses great stress. Stressed horses can injure themselves trying to escape the biting flies. Flies also spread diseases, which is a serious concern for horse owners. Catching these pests is crucial for herd health.
The Science Behind Effective Trapping
Horse flies are attracted to several key things:
- Heat: They seek out warm bodies, like horses.
- Movement: They are drawn to things that move, mimicking a large animal.
- Color: They often prefer dark colors, especially black or dark brown.
- Carbon Dioxide (CO2): While hard to replicate cheaply at home, some traps use this principle.
The best homemade horse fly trap designs use the first three attractants to lure the flies into a confined space where they cannot escape.
Building Simple and Effective Trapping Devices
There are several proven horse fly trap plans available. We will focus on two highly effective and easy horse fly trap designs.
Method 1: The Hanging Ball Trap (The “Biting Fly Magnet”)
This trap mimics the look of a large animal, drawing in the biting flies. It is highly successful for catching biting flies on horses in pastures.
Materials You Will Need:
- A large, dark-colored exercise ball or a dark balloon (needs to be around 10–14 inches wide). Black is best.
- A sturdy, cone-shaped barrier (like a funnel or a plastic bottle top).
- A wire hanger or strong rope for hanging.
- A large bucket or container to place underneath.
- Water mixed with a small amount of dish soap (the killing solution).
Step-by-Step Construction for the Hanging Ball Trap:
Step 1: Prepare the Attractant
Inflate the dark ball until it is firm. The dark color is key to attracting the flies. If you cannot find a dark ball, you can paint a light one with dark, non-toxic paint, but ensure it is fully dry before use.
Step 2: Create the Entry Funnel
The flies need an easy way in but a very hard way out. Take a large plastic bottle (like a 2-liter soda bottle). Cut the top third off. Invert the top piece (the spout part) and fit it into the base piece, creating a funnel shape. Secure it with strong tape. This creates your one-way entry point.
Step 3: Assemble the Trap Top
Poke a small hole in the very top of the dark ball. Thread the wire hanger or strong rope through this hole for hanging. Secure it tightly so the ball hangs steadily.
Step 4: Attach the Funnel
Place the wide end of your funnel over the top of the ball. It should be positioned so that flies attempting to land on the ball’s surface will investigate the dark shadow created by the funnel opening. Secure the funnel gently to the ball’s surface with a bit of strong, waterproof glue or tape if needed. The goal is to make the flies crawl up into the funnel neck.
Step 5: Set Up the Collection Zone
Hang the entire assembly above a large bucket or tub. The funnel opening should point down into the bucket. Fill the bucket with about 3–4 inches of water. Add a few drops of dish soap. The soap breaks the water’s surface tension. When flies fall in, they sink immediately instead of floating and escaping.
Step 6: Placement
Hang the trap 5 to 6 feet off the ground in the area where flies are most numerous, such as near gates or shaded areas where horses rest. This is an easy horse fly trap that requires checking every few days.
Method 2: The Plastic Bottle Trap (Great for Stable Flies Too)
This design is fantastic for trapping stable flies DIY style, as stable flies often target lower legs and wait on surfaces. It uses bait instead of just visual attraction.
Materials Needed:
- One large (gallon or larger) clear plastic jug or bucket.
- A utility knife or strong scissors.
- Bait: This is crucial. Options include old meat scraps, fish guts, or protein-rich liquid (like canned tuna water mixed with yeast).
- A small piece of screen or mesh for ventilation holes (optional).
Construction Steps:
Step 1: Cutting the Opening
Using your knife, cut a large opening near the top of the jug, leaving about 2 inches of plastic around the rim intact to maintain the jug’s structure.
Step 2: Creating the Entry Flaps
This step creates the inward-pointing entry system. Cut four slits, about 3 inches long, radiating outward from the edge of the hole you just cut. Fold these four flaps outward and slightly down, like the roof of a house seen from above. The flies crawl under these flaps.
Step 3: Adding the Bait
Place your smelly bait into the bottom of the jug. If using dry bait, pour a little water over it to help the scent spread.
Step 4: Securing the Lid (Optional)
If you are worried about predators or rain, poke small holes in the lid for airflow and secure the lid tightly. If you skip the lid, the flies enter easily from the top.
Step 5: The Trap Mechanism
Flies enter easily through the flaps attracted by the smell. Once inside, they fly upward toward the light coming through the plastic sides. They cannot figure out how to crawl back down the narrow flaps they entered through.
Step 6: Maintenance
Check this trap frequently (daily if possible). The bait will spoil quickly, especially in the heat. When the trap is full or the bait smells terrible (in a bad way), empty it and refresh the bait. This is a very effective homemade horse fly trap because the smell is a strong lure.
Enhancing Your DIY Traps: Bait Secrets
The success of any homemade horse fly trap hinges on what you use to draw the flies in. For serious pest reduction, you need strong attractants.
Top Bait Options for Biting Flies
| Bait Type | Target Flies | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Decomposing Meat/Fish | Horse Flies, Stable Flies | Extremely powerful attractant. | Smells very bad to humans; requires frequent replacement. |
| Yeast and Sugar Water | General Biting Flies | Easy to make; less offensive smell than meat. | Less effective specifically for horse flies than meat. |
| Ammonia Solution | Horse Flies (Mimics waste) | Strong scent that flies key in on. | Needs careful handling; must be diluted. |
| Tuna Water/Cat Food | Stable Flies, House Flies | Convenient and readily available. | Flies might chew through plastic if left too long. |
Making the Best DIY Horse Fly Repellent & Trap Combo
While trapping removes flies, many owners want immediate relief. Combining trapping with DIY horse fly repellent strategies gives double protection.
Simple Vinegar and Herb Spray:
This is a mild DIY horse fly repellent you can apply directly to horse blankets or around stall openings.
- 1 part Apple Cider Vinegar
- 1 part Water
- A handful of fresh or dried herbs known to deter insects (like peppermint, rosemary, or lavender).
- Mix well and let it steep for 24 hours. Strain the herbs out before spraying.
This spray acts as a mild deterrent, making the area slightly less appealing while your traps do the heavy lifting of trapping horse flies naturally.
Placement Strategies for Maximum Impact
Where you put your traps matters just as much as how you build them. Think like a horse fly looking for a meal.
Key Placement Rules
- Near Resting Areas: Flies often congregate where horses stand still, like near water troughs, shade trees, or entryways to run-ins. Place traps within 50 feet of these high-traffic areas.
- Sun and Shade Edges: Flies often hunt where the sun meets the shade. Placing traps on the border between bright sun and deep shadow can be very effective.
- Height Matters: Horse flies generally fly higher than stable flies. Aim for traps about 5 to 6 feet off the ground when trapping horse flies naturally. Stable flies prefer landing lower, so ground-level traps catch them better.
- Avoid Direct Sun (For Liquid Baits): If your trap relies on liquid bait (like the bottle trap), placing it in partial shade helps prevent the liquid from evaporating too quickly and keeps the smell potent longer.
Comparing DIY Methods for Control
It is helpful to know which trap is best for which pest. While all these methods aim for natural fly control for horses, they have slight advantages.
| Trap Type | Primary Target | Attractant Type | Maintenance Needs | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dark Ball Trap | Horse Flies | Visual (Heat/Movement) | Low (Just cleaning the bucket) | Large open pastures |
| Plastic Bottle Trap | Stable Flies, House Flies | Scent (Bait) | High (Frequent bait replacement) | Near barns or feeding areas |
If your main issue is the deep-biting horse fly, focus your efforts on the visual, heat-mimicking dark ball trap. If you have overwhelming numbers of stable flies hanging around manure piles or shaded corners, the baited bottle trap will be your top choice for trapping stable flies DIY.
Advanced DIY: Heat Element Integration (For Experts)
Some professional traps use external heat to boost attraction, mimicking a real animal’s body temperature even better than a dark ball. This method requires more care but can significantly boost your success in catching biting flies on horses.
The Simple Heat Enhancement
To try this safely, you can place a dark-colored, water-filled container next to your main trap.
- Fill a dark plastic container (like a 1-gallon jug) completely with water.
- Place it in direct sunlight for several hours.
- This warm container acts as an extra heat source near your trap. Flies are drawn to the warmth before they realize the actual target is the trap itself.
Safety Note: Never use electric heating elements outdoors unless they are specifically rated for that purpose and completely waterproof. Simple solar heating is the safest DIY horse fly trap addition.
Maintaining a Fly-Free Environment Alongside Trapping
Traps alone usually cannot eliminate 100% of the population, especially if you have large fields or nearby neighbors with unmanaged fly issues. Successful fly management involves several layers of defense.
Cultural Controls: Reducing Breeding Sites
The most vital step in natural fly control for horses is removing breeding grounds. Flies need moisture and organic material to lay eggs.
- Manure Management: Remove manure daily, or at least every two days. Do not let piles sit near barns or turnout areas. Haul it far away or compost it quickly.
- Drying Wet Spots: Stable flies thrive in damp, rotting organic matter (like spilled feed or wet shavings). Improve drainage in stalls and paddocks. Keep feeding areas clean and dry.
- Composting: If you compost manure, ensure the piles heat up sufficiently to kill fly larvae.
Physical Barriers
While not strictly a DIY horse fly trap, these barriers help keep flies away from the horses themselves.
- Fly Sheets: Lightweight fly sheets protect the horse’s body from biting insects.
- Fans: Horses resting in stalls should have large fans pointed toward them. The wind makes it impossible for flies to land and bite. This is one of the most effective DIY horse fly repellent methods right in the stall.
Frequently Asked Questions About DIY Horse Fly Traps
Q: How long does it take for a DIY horse fly trap to start working?
A: Results vary based on fly pressure and the quality of your bait. Visual traps (like the ball trap) can start catching flies within a few hours on a hot, sunny day. Scented traps may take 1–2 days as the odor has to fully permeate the area and attract the flies. Consistent deployment is key to seeing results.
Q: Can I use sticky traps or duct tape instead of water?
A: For horse flies, sticky traps are generally not recommended. Horse flies are very strong and large; they often tear themselves free from tape or sticky surfaces before they are completely stuck. Furthermore, sticky traps get overwhelmed quickly with dust and debris. Water with soap is far more reliable for ensuring the flies drown once they enter the trap.
Q: Will these traps catch beneficial insects too?
A: Yes, any trap that relies on broad attraction (like scent or general shape) can catch non-target insects, including beneficial ones like certain wasps or non-biting flies. This is a drawback of any large-scale trapping horse flies naturally. However, horse flies are typically highly motivated by the specific lures used (like meat or strong heat signatures), which often helps them target pest species more than others.
Q: My baited trap smells terrible. How often must I clean it?
A: If you are using meat or fish scraps, you must clean the trap every 1 to 3 days, depending on the temperature. High heat accelerates decay dramatically. Empty the contents far away from your barn and spray the inside of the container with a mild bleach solution or vinegar water before rebaiting. This is necessary for an effective homemade horse fly trap.
Q: Should I use a commercial attractant instead of homemade bait?
A: Commercial attractants are often very effective and formulated to last longer than simple food scraps. If you find your homemade horse fly trap bait isn’t pulling in enough pests, investing in a commercial attractant can be a good middle ground between building your own trap and buying a complete commercial system. It’s a great way to test how effective your physical trap design is.
Q: I have a lot of stable flies. Which trap is better?
A: Stable flies tend to land on objects or animals rather than flying high like horse flies. For them, the baited bottle trap set near ground level, perhaps close to where manure accumulates or horses rest their legs, will provide the best results for trapping stable flies DIY.