Measuring a horse for a saddle involves checking the width and curve of its back to find the right saddle tree size. You also need to measure the horse’s sides to know what length of saddle panel is best.
Getting the right saddle fit is key for your horse’s comfort and performance. A poorly fitting saddle can cause pain, resistance, and long-term back issues. This detailed guide will walk you through the simple steps for horse back measurement and other important checks. This process is the core of any good saddle fitting guide.
Why Accurate Saddle Measurement Matters
A saddle that fits poorly is a major problem for any horse and rider team. Think of it like wearing shoes that are too tight or too loose every day. Your horse feels this pressure with every single stride.
A bad fit leads to:
- Visible soreness or white hairs on the back.
- Refusal to work or bucking when the saddle goes on.
- One-sided muscle atrophy (wasting away).
- Rider instability because the saddle sits incorrectly.
By following these steps for how to measure a horse’s back, you ensure the saddle supports the horse properly. This leads to better movement and a happier animal. It is the first step in determining correct saddle size.
Step 1: Preparing for Measurement
Before you start measuring, you need the right tools and environment. Accuracy depends on good preparation.
Essential Tools for Measurement
Gather these items before you start:
- A flexible measuring tape. Make sure it is one used for sewing or body measurements, not a stiff builder’s tape.
- A long, straight edge or a specialized saddle fitting tool.
- A piece of chalk or a washable marker.
- A helper (optional, but useful for holding the horse steady).
- A reliable saddle measurement chart for reference later.
Preparing Your Horse
The horse must be standing squarely on level ground. This means all four legs should be placed evenly, not leaning forward or backward.
- The horse should be relaxed. A tense horse changes the shape of its back muscles.
- The horse should be wearing only a thin saddle pad, or nothing at all, if you are checking the bare back shape. If you are using a template, use the same type of thin pad you usually ride with.
- Brush the coat flat. Hair can throw off your measurements.
Step 2: Assessing Back Shape and Length (The Wither and Back Length)
The main part of the measurement involves finding the length of the saddle area and the shape of the spine, especially over the withers.
Measuring Wither Height and Clearance
The withers are the highest point of the horse’s back, located just in front of where the mane ends. This area dictates the saddle’s front arch.
- Locate the Withers: Feel for the highest point.
- Measure Height: Hold the tape measure vertically from the ground straight up to the highest point of the withers. Record this number. This is important for overall saddle balance, but not the primary factor for saddle tree size.
Measuring the Back Length (Saddle Seat Length)
You need to know how long the saddle can safely be. A saddle that is too long puts pressure behind the last rib, which is painful and hinders movement.
- Find the Starting Point: Place the end of the tape measure just behind the large bony area of the shoulder blade (scapula). This is where the saddle flap should start.
- Find the End Point: Follow the spine backward until you reach the point just before the loin area starts to curve steeply down toward the tail. This area is often just in front of the last rib.
- Record the Measurement: Read the length along the curve of the back. This length, often called the horse back measurement, helps choose the correct panel length (or flap length on an English saddle).
Table 1: Typical Saddle Length Estimates Based on Horse Size
| Horse Height (Hands) | Approximate Back Length (Inches) |
|---|---|
| Pony (Under 13.2) | 14 – 16 inches |
| Small Horse (14.0 – 15.2) | 16 – 17 inches |
| Average Horse (15.3 – 16.2) | 17 – 18 inches |
| Large Horse (17.0+) | 18 – 19+ inches |
Note: This table offers a rough guide. Always use your direct measurement.
Step 3: Determining Saddle Tree Width (The Crucial Measurement)
The saddle tree size is the single most important factor for comfort. The tree bears the rider’s weight and must bridge the horse’s spine without touching it. It must fit the angle and width of the ribs where the saddle rests.
Using a Template or Flexible Ruler
This step is often best done using a specialized template or by making a tracing of the horse’s back. If you lack a template, a stiff piece of cardboard or thick paper can work, but it is harder to shape correctly.
- Locate the Centerline: Gently find the spine, running your fingers down the center of the back where the saddle channel will sit.
- Position the Template: Place your flexible ruler or template across the horse’s back, roughly halfway between the withers and the last rib. This is the spot that usually determines the tree width.
- Mapping the Shape (The “Bridge”): Gently press the flexible ruler down on both sides, following the contour of the horse’s ribs. You are trying to map the width under the muscle, not just the widest part of the back skin.
- Marking the Width: Mark where the ruler touches the top of the horse’s back on both sides, making sure the spine stays perfectly centered.
- Measuring the Width: Remove the ruler. Lay it flat on a table. Measure the straight line distance between the two marks you made. This gives you the horse back measurement across the bearing surface.
Relate Measurement to Saddle Tree Sizing
Saddle manufacturers use different sizing systems (e.g., numbers 1, 2, 3, or letter sizes like M, W, XW). Your flat measurement must be compared to the manufacturer’s saddle measurement chart.
- Narrow Trees (e.g., 28-30cm or Size 1): For horses with very defined, high withers and narrow backs (often Arabians or Thoroughbreds).
- Medium Trees (e.g., 31-33cm or Size 2): For most average horses.
- Wide Trees (e.g., 34cm+ or Size 3/W): For flatter-backed horses or those with significant muscle development (like many Warmbloods or Draft crosses).
A good rule of thumb in saddle fit assessment is that the tree should be the same width as the horse’s back at that spot, or slightly narrower, as the padding will fill in the small space. If the tree is too narrow, it pinches the spine, causing bridging. If it is too wide, it tips the rider forward and rests only on the two tree points, causing pressure localized on the rails of the ribs.
Step 4: Assessing the Contour (The Rocking Test)
The shape from front to back is just as vital as the width. This is where horse conformation analysis plays a big role. Some horses have a straight back, while others have a significant “rock” or curve.
Checking for Bridge or Sway
A horse with a sway back (common in older horses) needs a saddle that accommodates this dip without resting weight on the center of the spine.
- Visual Check: Stand behind the horse while it is standing squarely. Look down the line of its back. Is it straight, slightly curved up (roached), or slightly curved down (sway)?
- The Panel Check (When Testing a Saddle): When you eventually place a saddle on the horse, lift the center of the front of the saddle slightly. If the saddle sits flat on the horse’s back with just the front and back points touching the horse, you have a bridging issue. The tree needs to be wider or have more curve to match the horse’s back.
Step 5: Measuring for Girth Length (Equine Girth Measurement)
While not directly about the tree width, the equine girth measurement determines the correct size of the girth (cinch) needed to hold the saddle securely. This measurement impacts comfort significantly.
How to Measure the Girth
- Positioning: Have the horse standing squarely again.
- Measuring Point: Measure the area directly behind the front legs, where the girth naturally sits. This point is usually a few inches behind the elbow.
- Use a Tape Measure: Wrap the flexible tape measure around the horse’s barrel at this spot. Do not pull it tight; measure comfortably, as if the horse were breathing normally.
- Calculating Girth Size: Girths are sized based on this measurement, but you must account for the saddle rigging type (e.g., English vs. Western billets). English girths are usually close to the measurement, while Western cinches use a different sizing scale.
Step 6: Using Templates for Custom Saddles
If you are measuring horse for custom saddle, advanced methods are often required. Professionals frequently use specialized foam or rubber templates that capture the exact 3D shape of the back.
Creating a Template
- Material Choice: Use a dense, pliable material like thick foam padding or even wet clay (though foam is less messy).
- Application: Carefully place the material over the measurement area (between the scapulae, behind the shoulder).
- Scribe: Use a marking tool or your finger to trace the exact line of the spine (the highest point) and the outlines where the saddle panels will rest.
- Submission: This physical template is sent to the saddle maker, providing them with a perfect 3D map of the horse’s bearing surface. This is the highest level of saddle fit assessment.
Interpreting Results and Common Issues
Once you have your measurements, compare them against your current saddle or the specifications of a new saddle.
Too Narrow (Most Common Problem)
If your measurement suggests a narrower tree than you currently have:
- Symptoms: The saddle appears pitched forward when you sit in it. The rider feels too close to the horse’s shoulders. You might see white patches under the saddle pad after riding.
- Action: You need a smaller tree size or a saddle with more flare at the points.
Too Wide
If your measurement suggests a wider tree than you currently have:
- Symptoms: The saddle sits too high at the pommel and tips backward. The rider feels like they are falling down into the saddle, and the saddle may rock side-to-side.
- Action: You need a wider tree size or a saddle with less angle on the points.
Panel Contact Issues
The panels (the underside of the saddle) must have full, even contact with the back muscles.
- Bridging: If the saddle only touches at the front (gullet) and the back (cantle), the center is lifted. The tree needs adjustment or the horse needs muscle development.
- Pressure Points: If the panels dig in at one specific spot, usually from uneven weight distribution or a twisted saddle, immediate adjustment is needed.
Professional Fitting vs. DIY Measurement
While these steps provide a strong foundation for determining correct saddle size, professional help is highly recommended, especially for expensive or custom purchases.
The Role of the Saddle Fitter
A certified saddle fitter does more than just measure. They use their expertise in horse conformation analysis to interpret your numbers in context with the horse’s movement.
- Observing Movement: They watch the horse move both tacked up and loose to see how the muscles engage.
- Pressure Mapping: Modern fitters use pressure pads that show exactly where weight is distributed when you ride.
- Tree Adjustment: Many modern saddle trees are adjustable, and a fitter can often change the width on-site.
DIY measurement gets you in the ballpark; professional fitting ensures lifelong comfort and performance. It is the final step in a complete saddle fit assessment.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How often should I measure my horse for a saddle?
You should measure your horse every six months, or any time you notice a significant change in their body. Horses change shape due to aging, fitness levels, changes in feed, or injury recovery. If you have a growing horse or one in intense training, measure even more frequently.
Can I use my old saddle’s measurements for a new saddle?
No. Different manufacturers use different tree widths for the same size number (e.g., a “Medium” in one brand is not the same as a “Medium” in another). Always use the direct horse back measurement and consult the specific saddle measurement chart for the brand you are buying.
What if my horse’s back is very short or very long?
If the back is very short, you must ensure the saddle does not extend past the 18th rib. If the back is very long, you need to be careful not to choose a tree that is too short in the panels, which will lead to pressure on the loin area. Longer backs often require longer saddle flaps to accommodate the rider’s leg length as well.
What is the difference between English and Western saddle measurement?
English saddles focus on the width of the tree and the length of the panel under the rider’s seat and leg flap. Western saddles are typically measured by the seat size (e.g., 15-inch, 16-inch seat) and the width of the fork (the Western equivalent of the gullet/tree). The principles of fitting the bearing surface remain the same, but the tools and terminology differ.