What is the most important aspect of feeding a horse? The most important part of feeding a horse is providing consistent access to high-quality forage, like hay or pasture, as this forms the foundation of their diet and keeps their digestive system healthy.
Feeding a horse correctly is vital for its health, happiness, and performance. A good horse feeding guide focuses on meeting the horse’s natural needs first. Horses are designed to graze almost all day long. This guide will help you set up a proper horse diet using smart methods. We will look at the types of horse feed, how to set a feeding schedule for horses, and smart ways to use supplements.
The Basics of Equine Nutrition
Equine nutrition is not one-size-fits-all. It changes based on the horse’s age, work level, health status, and environment. A horse’s digestive system is sensitive. It works best when eating small amounts often, just as nature intended.
Assessing Your Horse’s Needs
Before you change anything, you need to know what your horse needs right now. Ask these simple questions:
- Is the horse gaining weight?
- Is the horse losing weight?
- Is the horse doing hard work (like racing)?
- Is the horse resting (light work or retirement)?
- Does the horse have any known health issues (like laminitis or ulcers)?
These answers tell you how much energy (calories) and protein your horse needs daily.
Body Condition Scoring (BCS)
Use the Henneke Body Condition Scoring system. This is a simple 1 to 9 scale.
| Score | Condition | What it Means |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Very Thin | Bones are sharp and easy to see. |
| 5 | Ideal | Ribs can be felt easily. Fat covers the body well. |
| 9 | Obese | Very heavy fat deposits. Difficult to feel ribs. |
Aim for a score between 4 and 6 for most horses. Adjust feed amounts based on this score.
The Foundation: Forage
Forage—hay and grass—should make up the biggest part of your horse’s diet. Horses need a constant supply of fiber. Fiber keeps the gut moving and prevents serious health problems.
Pasture vs. Hay
Pasture grass is great when available. However, grass quality changes with the season. In spring, grass can be too rich. In dry summer months, it might not have enough food value.
Hay is the main source when grass is limited. Quality matters a lot here.
Hay Quality Checks
Always check your hay before feeding it. Look for these signs:
- Color: Should be green, not brown or dusty.
- Smell: Should smell sweet and fresh. Musty or moldy smells mean throw it out.
- Texture: Should be pliable, not brittle or overly coarse.
Never feed moldy, dusty, or spoiled hay. It can cause severe breathing issues or colic.
How Much Forage to Feed
A general rule is to feed 1.5% to 3% of the horse’s body weight in dry matter feed daily. Most of this should be forage.
Example: A 1,000-pound horse should eat between 15 and 30 pounds of hay or grass per day. For most horses in light work, aim for the higher end of the forage intake. This keeps their stomach full and happy.
Moving to Concentrates: Hay and Grain for Horses
Concentrates are feeds that pack a lot of energy and nutrients into a small amount of food. This usually means grains (like oats or corn) or commercial sweet feeds and pellets. These are needed when forage alone cannot meet the horse’s energy needs, such as for growing youngsters, hard-working athletes, or mares nursing foals.
Grains
Grains provide quick energy. They are high in starches. Too much starch is a big problem for most horses. It can overload the hindgut. This often leads to colic or laminitis.
- Oats: Common and easy to digest in small amounts.
- Corn: Very high in energy. Use sparingly, especially for easy keepers.
- Barley: Needs to be processed (cracked or rolled) to be digested well.
Commercial Feeds
Today, many owners use complete commercial feeds. These often come as textured sweet feeds or pelleted feeds.
- Pelleted Feeds: Uniform mix of ingredients. Less chance of the horse picking out only the tasty bits.
- Sweet Feeds (Textured): Contain molasses coating and whole grains. Can be more appealing but may encourage overeating or separation of nutrients.
Choosing the right concentrate is key. A low-energy horse needs a feed with less added sugar and starch. A performance horse needs more protein and calories. Always read the guaranteed analysis on the feed bag.
Setting Up a Feeding Schedule for Horses
Consistency is crucial for digestive health. Horses thrive on routine. A strict feeding schedule for horses helps keep the gut environment stable.
Frequency Matters
If you are feeding concentrates, splitting the total amount into smaller meals is best. Never feed a large, high-starch meal at once.
Good Feeding Practice:
- Free Choice Forage: The horse should always have access to hay or grass if possible.
- Concentrates: Divide the total grain/pellet portion into two or three small meals daily. Feed at set times, like morning and evening.
- Avoid Empty Stomachs: Try to limit the time a horse goes without forage to less than four hours, especially if they receive concentrates.
Why Small Meals? The horse’s stomach is small. It produces acid all the time. Hay acts like a buffer against this acid. Small, frequent meals keep the stomach lining protected.
Timing Meals
Set clear times and stick to them. If you feed at 7 AM and 6 PM every day, the horse’s body adjusts to that rhythm. Sudden changes stress the system.
Tools for Accurate Feeding
You must know exactly how much you are feeding. Guessing leads to overfeeding or underfeeding. This is where measuring horse feed correctly becomes essential.
Using Feed Scoops and Scales
Most commercial feed bags come with a scoop. These scoops are often misleading because they measure volume (like a cup), not weight. Different feeds have different densities.
The Best Method: Use a digital kitchen or luggage scale. Weigh your scoop of feed once. This tells you the actual weight (in pounds or kilograms) of that scoop for that specific feed.
Table: Common Feed Measurement Example (Varies by Feed Type)
| Measurement Tool | Volume (Cups) | Approximate Weight (Lbs) |
|---|---|---|
| Standard Scoop | 1 | 0.75 – 1.25 lbs |
| Full Bucket | 8 | 6 – 10 lbs |
Always weigh to be sure. If a feed bag says your horse needs 6 pounds of feed per day, use your scale to measure exactly 6 pounds, not just fill the scoop twice.
Feeding Buckets for Horses
Every horse should have its own clean feeding buckets for horses. This prevents arguments and ensures every horse gets its full ration. Wash the buckets daily to remove old food residue and bacteria.
For horses that eat too fast, use slow-feeder nets or specialized slow-feeders placed inside their regular feed bucket. This makes mealtime last longer, mimicking natural grazing patterns.
Specialized Diet Needs
Not all horses fit the average mold. Some need special dietary considerations.
Feeding Supplements for Horses
Supplements are used to fill gaps in the diet or address specific needs. They are not a replacement for good hay and grain for horses.
Common Supplements:
- Vitamins and Minerals: Essential if the hay is low quality or if the horse is on a restricted diet. A balanced ration balancer pellet often covers these needs.
- Joint Support: Glucosamine and Chondroitin for older or performance horses.
- Digestive Aids: Probiotics and prebiotics help maintain healthy gut flora, especially during stress or illness.
- Electrolytes: Necessary for horses working hard or sweating heavily in hot weather.
Caution: More is not better with supplements. Always consult your veterinarian or equine nutritionist before adding several different supplements. Too many vitamins or minerals can be toxic.
Feeding the Senior Horse
Older horses often have dental issues. They might struggle to chew long hay strands.
- Soak Hay: Soak hay cubes or pellets to make them soft.
- Hay Nets: Use small-hole nets to slow them down.
- Complete Senior Feeds: These are often formulated to be easily digestible and calorie-dense.
Feeding the Growing Horse (Foals and Weanlings)
Young horses need balanced calories for bone and muscle growth. They are often fed small amounts of high-quality concentrate mixed with high-quality forage. Protein needs are higher, but calcium and phosphorus must be perfectly balanced for skeletal development. Improper feeding here leads to long-term orthopedic problems.
Water: The Most Overlooked Nutrient
Water is the most important part of the diet. A horse needs 5 to 10 gallons of clean water daily. This amount increases significantly with hard work or hot weather.
- Always Clean: Check water buckets or troughs daily. Algae or dirt will make horses drink less.
- Temperature: In winter, horses drink less if the water is freezing. Provide slightly warmed water to encourage intake. Dehydration is a major cause of colic.
Comprehending Digestive Health and Colic Prevention
The goal of a successful horse feeding guide is to prevent colic. Colic is abdominal pain, and feeding practices are the leading cause of it.
The Role of Fiber
Fiber slows down digestion. It ensures that feed moves smoothly through the large intestine. Low forage intake equals slow gut movement and risk of impaction or spasmodic colic.
Managing Starch Intake
Large amounts of grain overload the small intestine’s ability to digest starch. Undigested starch reaches the hindgut. This feeds the wrong bacteria, causing gas, pain, and sometimes fatal acidosis.
Rule of Thumb: Never feed more than 5 pounds of grain or concentrate per feeding to an average 1,000-pound horse. If a horse needs more calories, give them more forage or a high-fat, low-starch feed source (like rice bran or vegetable oil).
Recognizing Feed Changes
When switching brands or types of feed, do it slowly. A sudden change shocks the gut bacteria.
The Transition Period: Take 7 to 14 days to switch entirely.
- Day 1-3: 75% Old Feed, 25% New Feed
- Day 4-6: 50% Old Feed, 50% New Feed
- Day 7-9: 25% Old Feed, 75% New Feed
- Day 10+: 100% New Feed
Fathoming Feeding Tips for Horses for Optimal Health
Smart feeding tips for horses go beyond just what you put in the bucket. They involve management and environment.
Forage Testing
To really dial in your proper horse diet, test your hay. This lab test reveals exact protein, energy, vitamin, and mineral levels. It is the only way to know for sure if you are under- or over-supplying nutrients. This is especially key for performance or breeding horses.
Preventing Boredom Eating
Horses are meant to move and graze. If they are stalled for long periods, they often eat too fast or chew on wood out of boredom.
- Use hay slow-feeders to make the hay last all day.
- Provide safe chew toys for the stall.
- Ensure turnout time is maximized daily.
Dealing with Treats
Treats should only make up a very small part of the diet—less than 2% of the total intake. A handful of carrots or a few specialized low-sugar treats is plenty. Avoid feeding large amounts of sweet bakery treats or excessive amounts of fruit.
Comparing Common Feed Types
This table summarizes different types of horse feed based on typical use.
| Feed Type | Primary Component | Best For | Key Consideration |
|---|---|---|---|
| Grass Hay (Timothy, Orchard) | Fiber | Maintenance, easy keepers | Needs supplementation if low in calories. |
| Alfalfa Hay | Fiber, Protein | Growing horses, lactating mares | High in protein and calcium; watch intake. |
| Rolled Oats | Starch/Energy | Horses in heavy work | High starch; feed in small meals. |
| Pelleted Feed | Balanced Mix | Most types, controlled rations | Easy to measure and customize nutrients. |
| Beet Pulp | Fiber/Energy | Horses needing weight gain | Must be soaked before feeding. |
Adjusting for Workload
The amount and type of feed change based on how hard the horse is working.
Light Work (Riding 1-3 times a week, low intensity)
Forage should cover 90% or more of the diet. A quality ration balancer pellet added to the forage might be enough to supply vitamins without adding excess calories.
Moderate Work (Riding 3-5 times a week, some speed/jumping)
These horses need more readily available energy. Increase the concentrate slightly, perhaps feeding a ration balancer plus a small serving of a low-starch grain mix.
Heavy/Intense Work (Daily training, endurance, racing)
These horses need significant calories for sustained energy. This requires a high-quality performance feed or a blend of processed grains and fats (like oil) to boost energy density without overloading the gut with starch.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Horse Feeding
How often should I soak beet pulp?
You must soak beet pulp until it is soft and fluffy before feeding it. Use a ratio of about 1 part dry beet pulp to 2 parts water. It usually takes 30 minutes to an hour, depending on water temperature. Never feed dry beet pulp; it expands in the stomach and can cause choking or impaction.
Can I feed my horse straight grain like oats?
It is generally not recommended to feed just grain without balancing it with vitamins and minerals, or without ample forage. Straight grain is an unbalanced feed source. If using oats, ensure they are part of a fortified diet. Forages must always make up the bulk of the intake.
What is the difference between a ration balancer and a complete feed?
A complete feed is designed to be fed as the horse’s only meal source (forage is still usually needed). It contains all necessary calories, protein, vitamins, and minerals. A ration balancer is a highly concentrated source of vitamins, minerals, and protein. It is fed in small amounts (1–2 pounds per day) alongside forage to fill nutritional gaps, not to provide the main calories.
How do I tell if my horse is getting too much grain?
Signs your horse is getting too much grain include rapid weight gain, becoming overly energetic (“hot”), developing fat deposits along the crest of the neck or rump, and potentially showing signs of digestive upset like loose manure or low-grade intermittent colic. Always check your BCS score if you suspect overfeeding.
Is feeding hay nets always better for horses?
For most horses, especially those prone to ulcers or boredom, hay nets are excellent. They slow down consumption and mimic continuous grazing, which is beneficial for stomach acid management. However, ensure the net holes are large enough for the horse to eat comfortably without becoming frustrated or stressed.
How important are salt and minerals?
Salt (sodium chloride) is critical for hydration and nerve function. Horses need constant access to a salt block or loose salt mixed into their feed. Many commercial feeds include necessary trace minerals, but if feeding only grass hay, a loose mineral mix might be required to ensure they get enough copper, zinc, and selenium.