What is the fastest way to get rid of horse flies? The fastest way to get rid of horse flies involves a mix of immediate physical removal, using the best horse fly traps, applying effective repellents, and taking steps to minimize their breeding grounds near your property or stable.
Horse flies, also known as “greenheads” or “deer flies,” are more than just a nuisance; their painful bites can stress animals, reduce productivity, and even transmit diseases. Getting rid of them requires a multi-pronged attack. We need to focus on stopping them in their tracks and making your environment unwelcoming to them.
Comprehending the Horse Fly Problem
Horse flies are tough opponents. They are large, fast, and their bites hurt a lot. They need water to lay their eggs. Knowing this helps us attack them where they start.
Life Cycle Facts That Matter
Horse flies go through four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The female biting stage is what causes the trouble. They breed in moist soil or near water. Targeting these wet spots is key to eliminating horse fly breeding sites. If you stop the larvae, you stop the adults from hatching next season.
Immediate Action: Stopping the Bite Now
When horse flies are swarming, you need quick relief. These methods offer fast help for both people and animals.
Using Effective Horse Fly Deterrents on Animals
For horses and livestock, protection needs to be strong. Many commercial products work well.
Topical Sprays and Wipes
Look for sprays that last a long time. Many work by confusing the fly’s sense of smell.
- Pyrethrin-Based Products: These offer quick knockdown power. They are fast-acting but wear off quickly, so reapplication is often needed.
- Permethrin Treatments: These are often used on gear or directly on horses, offering longer residual action. Always follow label directions closely for animal safety.
- Oil-Based Repellents: Some oils act as physical barriers. They sit on the skin and make it hard for the fly to land and bite.
Natural Horse Fly Repellent Options
Many people prefer non-chemical solutions for their animals. Some natural horse fly repellent ingredients show promise:
- Citronella: A classic, but it needs frequent reapplication.
- Cedar Oil: This oil can disrupt the flies’ ability to locate their target.
- Garlic: Feeding garlic supplements may make the animal’s blood less appealing, though results vary widely.
Quick Fixes for People: Horse Fly Spray for Humans
When you are working outdoors, you need personal defense. Commercial horse fly spray for humans often uses DEET or Picaridin. If you seek natural relief, try a strong mix of essential oils like peppermint or eucalyptus in a carrier oil or water base. Apply it often to exposed skin to stop horse flies biting you.
Physical Barriers: Traps and Screens
Sometimes, the best defense is a good offense—or a good trap. Setting up the best horse fly traps can drastically lower the local population.
The Power of Traps
Traps work by drawing the flies in, trapping them, and killing them. This helps with getting rid of biting flies on horses by reducing the overall number nearby.
CO2 Traps (Lure-Based Systems)
These are very effective but often costly. Horse flies are attracted to carbon dioxide (CO2), heat, and movement—just like a mammal.
- How they work: The trap releases a small amount of CO2 and mimics body heat.
- Pros: Catches many species, including horse flies.
- Cons: Expensive upfront cost; requires propane or electricity.
Sticky Traps and Visual Lures
Simpler traps can still catch hundreds of flies daily.
- The “Mop Head” or Hanging Ball Trap: These traps use dark, round surfaces. The fly mistakes the dark ball for an animal. When it lands, it gets stuck on the sticky coating.
- Water Traps: These use water in a shallow pan, often with a layer of soap to break the surface tension. Flies land on the water and sink.
Table 1: Comparison of Common Horse Fly Traps
| Trap Type | Primary Mechanism | Effectiveness Against Horse Flies | Cost Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| CO2/Lure Trap | Mimics prey (CO2, heat) | High | High |
| Sticky Ball/Mop | Visual attraction + adhesive | Moderate to High | Low to Medium |
| Water/Soap Pan | Physical trapping | Low to Moderate | Very Low |
Physical Protection for Livestock
While traps work on the population, animals need direct defense.
Fly Sheets and Masks
Modern fly gear is excellent. Lightweight fly sheets cover most of the horse’s body, stopping flies from landing. Eye masks protect sensitive areas. These are crucial for getting rid of biting flies on horses that are highly bothered by pests.
Long-Term Control: Habitat Modification
To truly conquer horse flies, you must address where they live and breed. This is the core of lasting control. Preventing horse flies in pasture starts with water management.
Drainage is Essential
Remember, horse flies need moist, muddy areas to lay eggs.
- Drain Low Spots: Fill in areas in the pasture where water puddles after rain. Better drainage means fewer safe spots for eggs.
- Manage Manure: Manure piles attract many biting flies, though horse flies prefer wet areas more than house flies. Keep manure piled away from barns and regularly remove it.
Vegetation Management
Thick brush and tall grass near water sources offer resting spots for adult flies.
- Mow Regularly: Keep grass short, especially near feeding areas and barn entrances.
- Clear Edges: Trim back dense vegetation bordering ponds, streams, or wet ditches where flies might hide during the hottest parts of the day.
Tackling the Barn Area
Barns and sheds are magnets for flies looking for shade or livestock. This requires strong, dedicated methods.
DIY Horse Fly Control Inside Structures
You can create effective, targeted solutions using simple household items.
Creating Simple Sticky Traps
Take large pieces of cardboard and coat it heavily with a sticky substance. You can make this substance by mixing petroleum jelly with a bit of motor oil or corn syrup. Hang these in shaded areas of the barn where flies congregate.
Fans for Airflow
Flies are weak flyers. A strong fan pointed toward feeding troughs or resting stalls makes it very difficult for them to approach and land. Good airflow is a simple, yet very effective horse fly deterrent.
Introducing Biological Controls
For a more advanced, long-term approach, consider releasing beneficial insects.
- Parasitic Wasps: These tiny, non-stinging wasps lay their eggs inside fly pupae. They drastically cut down on the number of new flies emerging. They are a key component of eliminating horse fly breeding sites naturally. Release them regularly throughout the warm season.
Chemical Options: When Natural Ways Aren’t Enough
Sometimes, the infestation is too severe, and you need the power of chemical horse fly treatments. These should always be used carefully, following all safety guidelines.
Area Treatments
For large properties or severe outbreaks, chemical sprays directed at resting areas can offer relief.
- Residual Sprays: These sprays are applied to surfaces where flies rest—like fence lines, eaves, and shaded walls. They kill flies that land on the treated area hours or days later.
- Fogging: In severe cases, professional fogging can knock down the adult population quickly, but this is usually temporary.
Caution: When using chemical horse fly treatments, be mindful of beneficial insects like bees and butterflies. Spray only in the early morning or late evening when beneficial insects are least active. Always check labels for spray restrictions near water sources where livestock drink.
Feed-Through Treatments
These products are added to animal feed. The chemical passes through the animal’s digestive system and is excreted in the manure. While more effective against house flies, some products can reduce the overall fly population by making the manure less attractive for laying eggs. Discuss these options with your veterinarian first.
Maintaining Control: A Seasonal Strategy
Horse fly control is not a one-time fix; it is a yearly commitment.
Spring Preparation
As soon as the weather warms up, start draining wet areas. Deploy your best horse fly traps before the first major hatch. Start using natural horse fly repellent mixtures on horses regularly.
Summer Management (Peak Season)
This is when you need maximum effort.
- Reapply topical sprays daily.
- Check and empty sticky traps frequently (they fill up fast!).
- Monitor drainage areas constantly.
- Use fans in stalls.
If you are struggling to stop horse flies biting during mid-summer swarms, consider bringing animals into sheltered areas during peak fly hours (usually mid-morning to mid-afternoon).
Fall Winding Down
Continue monitoring traps until the first hard frost. Larvae that survived the summer will be preparing for winter, so keeping manure and debris tidy helps reduce the overwintering population for next year.
Making Your Environment Less Appealing
Horse flies look for large, dark targets that breathe heat and CO2. We can change how we present ourselves and our animals.
Color Choices Matter
Horse flies are strongly attracted to dark colors like black, dark brown, and navy blue.
- When selecting fly sheets or personal clothing, choose light colors like white, tan, or bright pastels. This is a simple, immediate way to make yourself or your horse a less attractive target for them.
Reducing Sweat and Moisture
Flies love moisture and the scent of sweat.
- Wash horses thoroughly after heavy work to remove sweat residue.
- Keep stalls and bedding dry.
- If using a DIY horse fly control spray that relies on oil or water, ensure it dries quickly or reapply after heavy sweating.
Deciphering Fly Behavior for Better Trapping
To use the best horse fly traps, we need to know what they want. Horse flies are attracted to movement and contrast more than just scent.
When setting up a visual trap, ensure the target—whether it’s a hanging ball or a sticky surface—is placed in direct sunlight, as this maximizes the heat signature and contrast against the background. This helps mimic the warmth of a large animal.
If you are trying getting rid of biting flies on horses, remember that the flies often target lower legs, bellies, and the base of the tail—areas that are harder to cover with sheets or sprays. Focus extra attention on these areas when applying repellents or using effective horse fly deterrents.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I use human-grade bug spray on my horse?
A: Generally, no. While some ingredients overlap, many horse fly spray for humans products contain concentrations or other chemicals that can be harmful or irritating to horse skin. Always use products specifically labeled for horses, or check with your veterinarian before applying human products.
Q: How long does it take for horse fly traps to start working?
A: It depends on the trap. CO2 traps can start catching flies within hours if the weather is warm and flies are active. Simple sticky traps can fill up within a day or two if the infestation is heavy. Effectiveness depends heavily on local fly density and weather conditions.
Q: Are there any good DIY horse fly control solutions for large pastures?
A: For large areas, physical barriers are difficult. Focus on eliminating horse fly breeding sites by improving drainage in low-lying areas. You can also hang numerous, low-cost sticky traps around the perimeter where flies might enter the pasture.
Q: What is the best way to use chemical horse fly treatments safely?
A: Always read and follow the label precisely. Apply residual sprays only to non-grazing surfaces like fence posts or barn eaves, not directly on the grass where animals graze. Never spray feed or water sources.
Q: Why won’t my natural horse fly repellent last long enough?
A: Natural oils evaporate quickly, especially in heat or wind. To make them last, you need a strong carrier oil (like coconut or almond oil) to slow down evaporation, or use them as part of a constant regimen, reapplying several times a day to maintain defense against stopping horse flies biting.