What is the correct way to measure a horse for a saddle? The correct way involves several steps: measuring the horse’s back length, assessing the shape of the back (contour), measuring the girth area, and evaluating the wither height and shape. Doing this right ensures a safe and comfortable fit for your horse.
Getting the right saddle for your horse is vital. A poorly fitting saddle causes pain, resistance, and long-term back damage. This guide will walk you through the steps needed to measure your horse accurately. We will cover everything from basic measurements to key checks. This information is crucial whether you are buying a new saddle or need help with a saddle fitting guide.
Why Accurate Saddle Measurement Matters
A proper fit is the foundation of a good partnership between horse and rider. A saddle that is too long or too short causes pressure points. A tree that is too narrow or too wide pinches the muscles. Measuring carefully helps in determining correct saddle size and tree width.
Effects of Poor Fit
When a saddle doesn’t fit well, several problems can occur:
- Pain and Resistance: The horse may show signs like bucking, refusing to move forward, or pinning its ears.
- Muscle Atrophy: Long-term pressure damages the back muscles.
- Gait Changes: The horse may shorten its stride or move unevenly.
- Saddle Slippage: A poor fit makes the saddle move around, causing rider imbalance.
Accurate measurements help you choose the right saddle tree size guide and seat size.
Step 1: Preparing for Accurate Measurement
Before you start measuring, you need the right tools and preparation. Gather these items first.
Essential Tools
- A flexible, non-stretchy tape measure: A soft cloth or vinyl tape works best.
- A long, flexible straight edge: A flexible ruler or a thin, straight piece of wood (like a yardstick) is needed for contour checks.
- A helper (optional but useful): A second person can help keep the horse still and hold the straight edge.
- A clean, brushed horse: Measure over a thin, close-fitting pad or directly on a short-haired, clean back. Avoid bulky blankets.
- Pencil and paper: To record all findings.
Horse Preparation
The horse must stand square. This means all four legs are positioned equally under the body. Ask the horse to stand on level, firm ground. The horse should be relaxed, not tense or shifting weight. This ensures the back is in a neutral position for measurement.
Step 2: Measuring the Horse Back Length
This is perhaps the most critical measurement. It determines the required length of the saddle panels and tree. This measurement is often called the horse back length measurement.
How to Measure Horse Wither to Tail
This process measures the flat surface the saddle will cover.
- Locate the Withers: Find the highest point of the horse’s shoulder blades, where the neck meets the back. This is the start point.
- Locate the Last Rib: Feel along the horse’s side. The last rib marks the end point for saddle placement in many cases. However, for accurate back length, we often measure to the point where the saddle should end.
- Using the Straight Edge: Place your long, flexible straight edge across the horse’s back. Place one end directly behind the wither point.
- Marking the End Point: The end point is usually just behind where the girth falls, or where the back muscle structure naturally starts to drop toward the loin area. A good rule of thumb for most English saddles is to measure from the wither to the point where a line drawn from the point of the hip meets the back.
- Taking the Measurement: Keep the straight edge firmly against the horse. Measure the distance along the curve of the back from the wither point to this determined end point. Do not pull the tape too tight.
Important Note: Different saddle makers use slightly different end points. Always check the specific guide if you are ordering a how to measure horse for custom saddle. Generally, you want the saddle to end before the soft loin area begins.
| Saddle Type | Typical End Point Reference |
|---|---|
| English Saddle | About 2–3 inches behind the last rib |
| Western Saddle | Often requires more room, up to the 17th or 18th vertebra area |
Record this measurement in inches or centimeters. This gives you the starting point for selecting a seat size from an equine saddle sizing chart.
Step 3: Assessing Back Shape and Contour
The back length tells you how long the saddle should be. The contour tells you what shape the tree needs to be. This falls under equine conformation assessment.
The Straight Edge Test
This test checks for dips or high points in the horse’s back.
- Positioning: Have your helper hold the straight edge across the horse’s back, sitting just behind the withers. The straight edge should rest on the highest points of the back muscles.
- Checking the Gap: Look at the space between the straight edge and the horse’s back.
- Flat Back: If the edge rests evenly with little space, the horse has a relatively flat back. A flatter tree might be needed.
- Roached or Swayed Back: If there is a large gap in the middle, the back dips (swayed). This requires a tree designed to bridge that gap.
- Mounded/High Withers: If the edge tilts up severely at the shoulders, the horse has pronounced withers. You will need more clearance here.
Measuring Wither Height and Width
The wither is crucial for saddle support and clearance.
- Height Measurement: Place a ruler vertically at the highest point of the wither. Measure from the point of the wither down to the level of the horse’s elbow joint (this gives a general height reference).
- Width Measurement: Gently feel the width of the wither structure at the base where the neck meets the back. Some horses have low, wide withers, while others have high, narrow ones. This impacts the gullet opening depth.
Step 4: Determining Tree Width (Gullet Fit)
The tree width is the most common fitting mistake. It determines how the weight rests on the horse’s shoulders and back muscles. This relates directly to the saddle tree size guide.
Measuring for Tree Width
There are several ways to estimate tree width, but using the spinous processes is the most reliable non-professional method.
- Locate the Spinous Processes: These are the bony projections along the top of the spine.
- Measuring the Space Between:
- Place two small objects (like two pen caps or small pencils) directly over two adjacent spinous processes where the saddle will sit (usually between the 10th and 13th thoracic vertebrae).
- Measure the distance between the centers of these two objects.
- Alternatively, use a specialized saddle-fitting template tool if you have one.
- Interpreting the Measurement: This measurement helps you correlate to standard sizes (e.g., Narrow, Medium, Wide).
Table Example: Approximate Tree Width Correlation (Use as a starting point only)
| Measurement Range (Inches) | Typical Designation |
|---|---|
| 2.5 – 2.75 | Narrow (N) |
| 2.75 – 3.0 | Medium Narrow (MN) |
| 3.0 – 3.25 | Medium (M) |
| 3.25 – 3.5 | Medium Wide (MW) |
| 3.5 + | Wide (W) or Extra Wide (XW) |
Note: These ranges vary significantly between brands (e.g., an “M” in one brand might be an “MW” in another). Always refer to the equine saddle sizing chart provided by the specific manufacturer.
Checking Shoulder Clearance
When measuring for tree width, you must ensure the tree allows the shoulder blade to move freely.
- Palpation: Place your fingers where the saddle’s front bars will sit. Feel the shoulder blade moving as the horse lifts and swings its leg forward.
- Rule of Thumb: The widest part of the tree (the points that sit just behind the shoulder) should not restrict the shoulder movement at all. If you can feel the bars digging in or the shoulder bumping the tree when the horse moves, the tree is too narrow or the saddle is too far forward.
Step 5: The Horse Girth Measurement for Saddle
While the girth measurement is primarily for buying girths or breastplates, it also provides useful information regarding the horse’s body shape and barrel depth, which influences panel shape. This is part of understanding saddle measurements.
- Locate the Girth Area: This is directly behind the elbow, in the deepest part of the barrel.
- Wrapping the Tape: Wrap the tape measure around the horse’s barrel at this point. Keep the tape level all the way around.
- Recording: Note the measurement. A very large girth measurement compared to a short back length might suggest a deeper-bodied horse needing specific paneling.
Step 6: Measuring for Seat Size
The seat size (e.g., 17 inches, 18 inches) refers to the distance from the pommel (front arch) to the cantle (rear arch) when measured along the top seam. This measurement is determined by the rider’s size, not the horse’s back length, though the horse’s back length puts a limit on how large a seat you can fit comfortably.
Relating Rider Size to Seat Size
Use this general guideline to start:
- Rider thigh length and weight are the main factors.
- A shorter rider generally needs a 16” to 17” seat.
- An average-sized adult often fits an 17” to 18” seat.
- Very tall or heavy riders may need 18.5” or larger.
The Limitation: If your horse has a very short horse back length measurement (say, 15 inches), you cannot place a 19-inch Western saddle on it, regardless of the rider’s size, because the saddle will overhang the back structure.
Step 7: Final Checks and Documentation
Once you have gathered all your numbers, consolidate them. These notes are vital when consulting a professional fitter or when how to measure horse for custom saddle.
Documentation Checklist
| Measurement | Result | Notes/Observations |
|---|---|---|
| Back Length (Wither to End Point) | Note if the back is very short or long. | |
| Wither Shape | High/Narrow, Low/Wide, Flat | |
| Back Contour | Flat, Swayed, or High in the Middle | |
| Estimated Tree Width Area | Rough measurement between spinous processes | |
| Girth Measurement | Deep barrel or shallow? | |
| Rider Seat Size Needed | E.g., 17.5” |
Interpreting Your Findings for Saddle Purchase
When looking at an equine saddle sizing chart, you combine these figures:
- Seat Size: Based on the rider.
- Tree Size/Width: Based on the back shape and wither clearance.
- Panel Length: Must be shorter than the measured horse back length measurement.
If you are purchasing a used saddle, you must compare the saddle’s specifications directly against your horse’s profile. If you are buying new, you use these numbers to select options from the manufacturer.
Advanced Considerations: A Deeper Dive into Equine Conformation Assessment
A basic measurement is good, but true saddle fitting requires equine conformation assessment. This involves looking at how the horse naturally carries itself and how muscles are developed.
The Role of Muscle Development
A fit, muscled horse might have a seemingly flat back, but the muscle mass can push the saddle up in the front.
- Well-Developed Trapezius: If the muscles over the shoulders are very developed (common in dressage or jumping horses), you need a tree that is wider at the point of tree entry and then angles back correctly, often requiring an “open” gullet or specialized cutbacks.
- Loin Strength: A weak loin area may not support the rear of a heavy Western saddle well, requiring a slightly shorter saddle than average for that horse’s height.
Evaluating Flank Angulation
When looking at the horse from the side, observe the angle created by the flank area where the back ends.
- A steep angle means the back drops off quickly. A saddle might tip forward here if the rear panel isn’t supportive enough.
- A very gentle slope means the saddle needs a longer panel to support the weight evenly to the rear.
Comprehending Saddle Tree Types
The material and design of the tree drastically affect how the saddle interfaces with the horse’s back. Understanding saddle measurements means knowing what those numbers mean for the tree structure.
Rigid vs. Flexible Trees
- Rigid Trees (Wood/Polymer): These hold a fixed shape. If the horse’s back changes shape due to muscle gain or loss, the tree must be adjusted by a professional or replaced. They rely heavily on the initial measurements being perfect.
- Flexible or Interface Trees: These are designed to flex slightly with the horse’s movement or adjust to minor muscle changes. They often work better for horses whose backs change seasonally or through training.
Full Bars vs. Panel Systems
Modern saddles often use panels stuffed with wool or foam instead of solid bars running the entire length.
- Wool Flocking: Allows for micro-adjustments by a saddle fitter to balance the saddle precisely on uneven terrain or muscle asymmetry.
- Foam/Latex: Provides consistent support but is harder to adjust later.
When using a saddle fitting guide, pay close attention to the manufacturer’s specifications regarding how their panel system works with your horse’s contour readings.
FAQ Section
Q: Can I measure my horse for a saddle while it is moving?
A: No. You must measure the horse while it is standing perfectly still and square on level ground. Movement changes the angle of the scapula and compresses the back muscles, leading to inaccurate readings for both length and width.
Q: How often should I remeasure my horse for a saddle?
A: You should remeasure if you notice any changes in the horse’s behavior (resistance, sore back) or if the horse has undergone significant training changes (gained or lost significant weight/muscle). Generally, it is wise to perform a full equine conformation assessment and measurement every 6 to 12 months, especially during intense training periods.
Q: What if my horse’s back length measurement falls between two standard sizes on the chart?
A: It is generally safer to choose the slightly shorter saddle, provided the tree width is correct. A saddle that is too long will rock, or the rear will sit on the loins, causing pain. A slightly short saddle (if the tree fits) might only slightly reduce the usable seat area but will usually remain stable. Always prioritize correct tree fit over seat length.
Q: Is it okay if the saddle sits slightly forward of the wither?
A: A good saddle should sit directly behind the highest point of the wither. If it sits too far forward (over the wither itself), it will cause severe pressure. If you have significant wither issues, you might need pads or shims designed to lift the saddle slightly in the front channel to achieve proper balance.
Q: What is the difference between English and Western saddle measurements?
A: English saddles are primarily sized by seat size (16”–18.5”) and tree width (Narrow to XXW). Western saddles are sized by seat size (14”–18”+) and use bars that are often significantly wider and longer to distribute weight over a larger area, requiring a longer horse back length measurement.