Yes, you should always check the fit of horse boots before every use to ensure they protect your horse without causing harm. Putting horse boots on correctly is vital for effective equine leg protection application. Incorrectly fitted boots can rub, restrict movement, or fail to protect when needed. This guide will walk you through the steps for safe and effective horse boot application techniques for various types of boots.
Why Correct Horse Boot Fitting Matters
Horse boots serve many purposes. They shield legs from strikes when jumping. They guard against scrapes during turnout. Good boots offer support during hard work. But a poorly fitted boot can cause more harm than good. It might pinch tendons. It could cut off blood flow. It might even slip down and cause a trip. Getting the proper placement of horse boots is not just about protection; it is about your horse’s comfort and safety.
Common Mistakes in Boot Application
Many people make simple mistakes when putting on horse exercise boots. Knowing these pitfalls helps you avoid them.
- Too Tight: Straps pulled excessively tight pinch the soft tissues and restrict blood flow.
- Too Loose: Boots slide around. This means they do not stay where they should offer protection. They can also cause chafing.
- Wrong Size: A boot that is too big covers the wrong parts of the leg. A boot too small will not close correctly or might not cover the vulnerable areas.
- Incorrect Order: Applying support wraps or boots over existing dirt or moisture traps heat and causes rubbing.
Preparing the Horse’s Legs
Before you even pick up a boot, the legs must be ready. Clean legs ensure the boots sit flat. They also prevent grit from getting trapped underneath.
Cleaning the Legs
Start with clean legs. This is essential for all horse boot application techniques.
- Rinse the lower legs well. Remove all mud, manure, and debris.
- Dry the legs thoroughly. A damp leg can lead to rubs once the boot is on. Dampness also makes the straps less secure.
- Inspect the leg. Look for any cuts, scrapes, or heat spots before applying protection.
Deciphering Boot Sizing
Boot sizes are not universal. A medium in one brand might be large in another. Always check the manufacturer’s chart. Measure your horse’s cannon bone and fetlock joint. This ensures you select the right size for fitting horse turnout boots or support boots.
Specific Boot Application Tutorials
Different boots require different methods. We will cover the main types: splint boots, open-front boots, bell boots, and hoof boots.
Applying Horse Fetlock Boots (Support Boots)
These boots often protect the cannons and sometimes the fetlock joint during exercise.
Step-by-Step Guide for Exercise Boots
- Positioning: Hold the boot so the straps face you. The thicker, protective splint pad should line up with the inside of the cannon bone (splint bone area).
- Wrapping Around: Bring the boot around the leg. Ensure the bottom edge sits just above the fetlock joint, but never over it. The top edge should be well below the knee or hock.
- Securing the Bottom Strap: Fasten the bottom strap first. It should be snug, but you should be able to slide two fingers comfortably between the strap and the leg. This is key to proper placement of horse boots.
- Securing the Middle Strap(s): Move to the next strap up. Pull it slightly tighter than the bottom one. It should secure the boot but allow movement.
- Securing the Top Strap: The top strap should be the snuggest, but never tight enough to pinch. It keeps the boot from slipping down.
- Checking the Fit: Walk the horse a few steps. Feel the back of the boot to ensure it is not sliding. Check that no straps are dangling where they could get caught. This is part of the best way to put horse boots on for active work.
Putting On Horse Bell Boots (Overreach Boots)
Bell boots protect the heels and the sensitive coronary band from being struck by the hind hooves or stepped on by the front hooves.
Securing Horse Bell Boots
Bell boots come in strap, sizing, or pull-on styles.
For Strap-On Bell Boots:
- Ensure the hoof is clean.
- Place the boot around the pastern, right above the hairline.
- The bottom edge of the boot should completely cover the heel bulbs and the back of the pastern. It must cover the entire hoof rim.
- Fasten the strap(s) snugly around the pastern. If the strap is too loose, the boot will spin. If it is too tight, it can rub the soft skin of the pastern.
- Check the fit: You must be able to get one finger underneath the strap easily.
For Pull-On Bell Boots:
- Hold the boot open widely.
- Step into the boot with the horse’s toe.
- Pull the boot up the leg quickly and firmly over the heel bulbs. Do not catch the skin.
- Ensure the lip of the boot sits correctly over the coronary band.
Applying Horse Fetlock Boots (Ankle Protection)
If you are using boots specifically designed just for the fetlock joint (sometimes called ankle boots or sport boots), placement is critical.
- Position the main protective cup directly over the sensitive fetlock joint.
- Ensure the straps wrap evenly around the joint area. Do not let the straps bunch up on one side.
- The goal is support without restricting the natural flexion of the joint when the horse moves.
Fitting Horse Turnout Boots
Turnout boots are designed to be tougher and often offer 360-degree protection against bumps and scrapes in the field. They should fit securely but allow for stretching and movement.
Factors Unique to Turnout Boot Fitting
Turnout boots often cover more area than exercise boots.
- Durability vs. Flexibility: Turnout boots must withstand rolling and lying down. Ensure the closures (Velcro or buckles) are robust and less likely to snag.
- Coverage: Make sure the boot covers the entire cannon bone down to the fetlock. If they are too short, the horse can still hit its lower leg structure.
- Check for Rub Points: Since the horse is loose, check for areas where the boot edges might rub when the horse stretches or walks loosely.
Troubleshooting horse boot fit for turnout: If the boot slides down while the horse is rolling, it is likely too large or the bottom strap is too loose. Add a fleece lining wrap underneath for better grip, or switch to a smaller size.
Advanced Techniques and Support Layering
Sometimes, boots are not enough on their own. Support wraps or specialized liners might be needed for intense work or injury management. This is where advanced horse boot application techniques come into play.
Using Polo Wraps Under Boots
Polo wraps or standing bandages provide support under the protection of splint boots. This combination is common when putting on horse exercise boots for jumping or rigorous dressage work.
- Apply the Wrap First: Start wrapping from just above the fetlock joint, moving upward toward the knee or hock. Maintain even, consistent pressure. Never wrap bony areas directly.
- Check Wrap Tension: The wrap should be firm enough to support but loose enough that you can still slip a finger easily under the top edge.
- Apply the Boot Over the Wrap: Once the wrap is secure, apply the boot as described above. The boot acts as a shield against impact, while the wrap offers underlying support.
- Crucial Check: Because the wrap adds thickness, re-check all the boot straps. They will likely need to be slightly looser than when worn directly on the skin.
Tutorial for Horse Hoof Boots (For Barefoot Horses)
Hoof boots are a specialized category, often used for riding barefoot horses over rough terrain or for therapy. This tutorial for horse hoof boots focuses on securing them correctly.
- Hoof Preparation: The hoof must be clean and dry. Trim the sole and flare according to your farrier’s instructions.
- Shaping the Boot: Some boots require you to slightly flex or shape the plastic shell before putting them on.
- Applying the Boot: Hold the boot open. Slide the horse’s toe into the boot opening. Work the hoof back until the boot is firmly seated against the sole.
- Securing the Straps: These boots rely heavily on straps to stay on.
- Secure the strap around the pastern area first. This stops the boot from flying off backward.
- Secure the strap around the coronary band area next. This locks the boot onto the hoof capsule itself.
- Ensure the straps are not twisted. Twists create pressure points that cause severe rubbing.
- Testing Movement: Walk the horse in hand. Watch how the boot moves. It should stay tight against the bottom of the leg without riding up or twisting excessively.
Troubleshooting Horse Boot Fit Issues
Even with the best intentions, problems arise. Knowing how to fix common fit issues keeps your horse sound.
Dealing with Boots Slipping Down
Slipping is common during long rides or vigorous exercise.
| Symptom | Possible Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Boot slides down during use. | Straps too loose, or wrong size boot. | Tighten the top strap slightly more. If it still slips, try a smaller size or use a thin wrap underneath for grip. |
| Boot catches on the ground. | Bottom edge is too low or floppy. | Ensure the bottom edge is sitting just above the fetlock joint, not hanging over it. |
| Boot twists during canter. | Straps are unevenly tight. | Re-strap, ensuring equal tension on both sides of the leg. |
Identifying Over-Tightening
Over-tightening is dangerous. Look for these signs immediately after applying boots or after a ride:
- Indentation Marks: Deep lines or cuts in the skin where the strap sat.
- Heat: Excessive heat under the strap area after removal.
- Swelling: Puffy areas just above or below the strap line.
- Limping/Reluctance to Move: The horse might object to the leg being picked up or might walk stiffly.
If you see these signs, loosen the boots immediately. For future applications, follow the “two-finger rule” for a safe fit.
Post-Ride Care and Inspection
The job isn’t done when the ride ends. Proper removal and care extend the life of your boots and maintain leg health.
Removing Boots Safely
Always remove boots once the horse has cooled down and is no longer sweating heavily. Removing them while the leg is hot and sweaty can cause immediate rubbing as the skin cools and contracts.
- Unfasten the straps from top to bottom.
- Gently peel the boot away from the leg. Do not yank them off, especially if they were tight.
Cleaning and Storage
Proper cleaning is part of the overall equine leg protection application process. Dirty boots cause rubs.
- Brush Off Debris: Remove caked-on dirt and hair immediately after taking them off.
- Washing: Most exercise and turnout boots can be machine washed on a gentle, cold cycle (use a garment bag). Bell boots often need hand washing due to heavy rubber or foam.
- Drying: Hang boots to air dry completely. Never put boots in a tumble dryer, as high heat destroys the Velcro and elastic components.
Store boots where they are protected from rodents (who love to chew straps) and excessive sunlight.
Considerations for Different Disciplines
The best way to put horse boots on varies depending on what the horse is doing.
Jumping vs. Trail Riding
- Jumping: Requires boots with maximum impact protection (often open-front styles). They must stay perfectly in place during intense flexion and extension. A support wrap underneath is highly recommended.
- Trail Riding: Focus shifts to abrasion resistance and protection from roots or rocks hitting the cannon bone. A sturdy fitting horse turnout boot style works well here, prioritizing coverage over extreme rigid support.
Therapeutic vs. Daily Use
Therapeutic boots or wraps, used for injury rehabilitation, require precision often dictated by a veterinarian or therapist. Do not guess the tension. These boots are not interchangeable with standard putting on horse exercise boots.
Deciphering Strap Tightness: A Quick Guide
Getting the tension right is the hardest part. Here is a simple reference for strap security:
| Location | Recommended Fit | Rationale |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom Strap (Near Fetlock) | Snug, but two fingers fit easily. | Allows fetlock joint to flex without restriction; prevents slipping down. |
| Middle Straps | Slightly snugger than the bottom. | Holds the main body of the boot securely against the cannon bone. |
| Top Strap | Snuggest overall (but still comfortable). | Prevents the boot from sliding down over the cannon bone or bunching up. |
Always err on the side of slightly looser rather than too tight when first learning horse boot application techniques. You can always stop and tighten a strap if you notice movement.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I leave horse boots on overnight?
Generally, no. Most boots, especially exercise boots, should be removed shortly after the horse cools down. Leaving them on overnight can restrict circulation, trap moisture, and lead to painful rubs or skin infections, even if they are marketed as fitting horse turnout boots. Only use specialized standing bandages or therapy boots designed for long-term wear, and only as directed by a professional.
How often should I replace my horse boots?
Inspect your boots regularly. If the Velcro no longer holds securely, the material starts tearing, or the protective padding becomes compressed and flat, it is time for replacement. For high-use boots, plan to replace them every one to two years. Even the best equine leg protection application fails if the gear is compromised.
Should I use wraps under all boots?
No. Support wraps are usually only necessary under splint/exercise boots used for high-impact activities like jumping or intense arena work. Many modern, high-quality turnout or fetlock boots are designed to offer sufficient protection and support on their own. Always check the manufacturer’s recommendation.
My horse hates having his boots put on. What can I do?
If your horse resists, it often means they associate the boot with discomfort (usually due to previous improper fitting). Go back to basics. Ensure the legs are clean and dry. Use treats during the process. Handle the leg gently, secure the straps loosely at first, and reward calmness. If you are applying horse fetlock boots, start by just placing them near the leg without strapping them on until the horse accepts their presence.