Can I get rid of horse flies completely? While total eradication is very hard, you can greatly lower their numbers around your horses and property using a mix of methods. This article shows you many good ways to control these biting pests.
Horse flies are more than just an annoyance. They bite hard. They can spread diseases. They make horses stressed and jumpy. This stress can lead to injuries. So, finding good ways for getting rid of biting flies on horses is important for horse health and safety. We will look at sprays, traps, physical barriers, and simple farm changes.
The Basics of Horse Fly Problem Solving
To win against horse flies, you need a plan. This plan should attack them at every stage of their life. Horse flies breed in wet, muddy areas. Their larvae need damp soil or decaying matter to grow. Stopping them there is key. Killing the adults keeps your horses safe now.
Deciphering the Horse Fly Life Cycle
Knowing how they live helps us fight them better. The full cycle has four parts: egg, larva, pupa, and adult fly.
- Eggs: Females lay hundreds of eggs near water or wet ground.
- Larva: The young worms live in damp soil or mud. They eat small organic matter. This stage can last weeks or months.
- Pupa: The larva turns into a resting stage, like a shell. This happens in drier soil nearby.
- Adult: The biting flies emerge ready to feed on blood. Females need blood to make their next batch of eggs.
Chemical Controls: Choosing the Right Horse Fly Repellent
Sprays and topical treatments offer quick relief. They confuse or kill flies on contact or repel them before they land. Choosing the best horse fly spray depends on how long you need protection and your horse’s sensitivity.
Selecting Effective Topical Sprays
Many products work well. Look for ones containing Pyrethrins or synthetic pyrethroids (like Permethrin). Always read the label first.
- Contact Killers: These sprays kill flies right away when you spray them. They offer very short protection time.
- Repellents: These keep flies away for several hours. Look for ingredients like DEET, Picaridin, or Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus (OLE). OLE is often seen as a great natural option too.
Table 1: Types of Topical Fly Control
| Control Type | Main Ingredient Examples | Duration of Effect | Best Use Case |
|---|---|---|---|
| Quick Kill Spray | Pyrethrins | Short (Minutes) | Immediate relief during a riding session. |
| Long-Lasting Spray | Permethrin, Picaridin | Several Hours | Daily turnout protection. |
| Natural Oil Spray | Citronella, Geraniol | Varies, usually shorter | Sensitive skin or for short outings. |
When applying, focus on areas horse flies love most: legs, neck, and belly. Do not spray near the eyes or mouth.
Using Premise Sprays
If you have a barn or stall area that needs help, use premise sprays. These sprays treat surfaces where flies rest after feeding. They break the life cycle by killing resting adults. Use these only where animals won’t lick the treated surfaces.
Physical Barriers: Blocking the Attack
Sometimes, the easiest way to stop a bite is to put something between the fly and the horse. This is a great part of natural horse fly control.
The Role of Fly Sheets for Horses
Fly sheets for horses are lightweight, mesh blankets. They cover most of the horse’s body. Good fly sheets are breathable so the horse stays cool.
- Full Coverage Sheets: These cover the back, sides, and often have neck hoods. They stop flies from landing on large areas.
- Fly Masks: These protect the eyes and ears, which are prime targets for biting flies. Choose masks with UV protection too.
Tips for Using Fly Sheets Effectively:
- Make sure the fit is snug but not tight. Loose sheets can tangle or rub.
- Wash them often. Dirty sheets can attract dust and grit, causing skin irritation.
- Use sheets treated with permethrin for extra repellency, but check labels for safety around gear.
Stable and Stall Treatments
Screening doors and windows on barns helps keep flies out of resting areas. Use heavy-duty mesh. Keep barn doors closed during peak fly hours, usually mid-morning to late afternoon.
Trapping the Enemy: Setting Up Horse Fly Traps
Traps are an excellent tool for reducing horse flies naturally. They lure the adult female flies, stopping them from biting and laying eggs.
How Fly Traps Work
Most successful horse fly traps use a combination of attractants:
- Heat and CO2 Simulation: Horse flies find their targets by sensing heat and carbon dioxide (what we breathe out). Traps often use a dark, round object (like a black ball or balloon) that heats up in the sun, mimicking a large animal.
- Visual Cues: The dark, round shape looks like a host animal to the fly.
- Sticky Surfaces or Water Collection: Once the fly lands on the “host,” it gets stuck on a sticky glue surface or falls into a collection bucket of soapy water.
Types of Effective Horse Fly Traps
- Sticky Traps: Large sheets covered in strong adhesive. They catch flies that land on them. These need frequent replacement.
- Water/Bucket Traps (like the “Ejector” or “Guardian” style): These use a sticky ball under a funnel or dome leading into soapy water. The soap breaks the water tension, drowning the flies instantly. These are very effective for large areas.
Place traps strategically. Put them where flies gather, often near manure piles, shaded areas, or near the edge of pastures—but not directly where horses gather to socialize, as this can increase local fly numbers initially.
Environmental Management: Preventing Horse Flies at the Source
This is the most important long-term strategy for reducing horse flies naturally. If you remove their breeding grounds, you reduce the next generation of biters.
Controlling Moisture and Mud
Remember, horse fly larvae need wet soil.
- Drainage is Key: Check your pastures and turnout areas. Are there low spots that stay soggy after rain? Fill these in or improve drainage systems.
- Manure Management: Horse flies often breed in manure piles, especially if they stay damp. Remove manure daily or every other day. Compost manure piles so they heat up quickly, which kills larvae inside. Do not let wet shavings sit for long periods.
- Water Sources: Check leaky troughs or hoses that keep ground wet near sheds or gates.
Landscaping Choices
Tall, dense weeds and uncut grass can harbor pupating flies. Keep grass mowed short in high-traffic areas. Open up areas so they dry out quickly after rain.
DIY Remedies and Simple Solutions
Not every solution requires an expensive purchase. Some simple steps can help with managing horse fly bites and keeping pests away. Many people look for DIY horse fly remedies.
Vinegar Sprays
Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) is a popular DIY horse fly remedy. Flies dislike the smell and taste.
- Simple ACV Spray: Mix one part ACV with one part water. You can add a few drops of mild dish soap (this helps the spray stick). Spray lightly on your horse before turnout. Be cautious around sensitive skin.
Garlic Supplements
Feeding garlic to horses has long been debated as a fly deterrent. The theory is that compounds released through sweat and breath repel insects.
- Dosage: Consult your vet about safe daily amounts of powdered or granulated garlic to add to feed. While anecdotal evidence is strong for some owners, scientific studies are mixed. It works best as a support, not a standalone solution.
Fans in the Stable
Flies are weak flyers. A strong fan in the barn aisle or a direct fan pointed at a horse while grooming creates an air current that they cannot easily fight against. This is one of the most effective ways to keep flies off horses while they are stalled.
Advanced Pest Control Tactics
For severe infestations, you might need a multi-pronged approach that integrates chemical and cultural controls.
Larvicides for Breeding Sites
If you have a persistent wet area that you cannot drain (like a small boggy section), specialized larvicides might be necessary. These products target the fly larvae in the soil or water. Always use products approved for use around livestock and follow label directions strictly regarding re-entry times for animals.
Rotating Treatments
Horse flies can develop resistance to certain chemicals over time. Rotate the active ingredients in your sprays every few weeks or months. If you use a permethrin-based spray one month, switch to a product based on Picaridin the next. This keeps the pests guessing.
Protecting the Horse: Managing Horse Fly Bites
Even with the best prevention, some bites will happen. Knowing how to treat them quickly reduces irritation and risk of infection.
Immediate Aftercare
- Do Not Slap or Swat Vigorously: Aggressive swatting can cause the horse to injure itself by overreacting or cause bruising.
- Gentle Cleaning: If a fly has just landed or left a wound, gently wipe the area with a clean, damp cloth.
- Topical Treatment: If a bite has broken the skin, clean the area with a mild antiseptic wash. Follow up with a soothing ointment or spray designed to calm inflammation. Many veterinarian-approved sprays for managing horse fly bites contain soothing ingredients like aloe or mild steroids to reduce swelling and itchiness.
Monitoring for Infection and Illness
Horse fly bites can transmit diseases like Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis (EEE) or Swamp Fever (Equine Infectious Anemia).
- Watch for signs of infection at the bite site: excessive swelling, heat, pus, or pain when touched.
- Monitor your horse for signs of systemic illness: lethargy, fever, loss of appetite, or unusual behavior. Contact your veterinarian immediately if these signs appear. Ensure your horse’s vaccinations are up to date, especially for vector-borne diseases common in your region.
Summary of Integrated Fly Management Strategy
Effective control is not one thing; it’s many things working together. This integrated approach uses all the tools available.
Table 2: Integrated Horse Fly Control Checklist
| Strategy Pillar | Actions to Take | Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Source Reduction | Improve drainage; remove damp manure piles. | Weekly/As needed |
| Physical Barriers | Apply fly sheets for horses; use fly masks. | Daily during fly season |
| Repellency | Apply best horse fly spray or horse fly repellent oil. | Daily or per product instructions |
| Trapping | Set up and maintain horse fly traps. | Weekly maintenance |
| Stable Hygiene | Keep barns screened; use fans. | Daily |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Horse Flies
How fast do horse flies fly?
Horse flies are relatively fast flyers, but they are not as fast as some smaller biting flies like deer flies. Their speed is less of an issue than their persistence. They often circle a host until they find an unprotected spot to land.
Are horse flies attracted to dark colors?
Yes, absolutely. Horse flies are strongly attracted to large, dark, moving objects. This is why black rubber balloons or dark balls are used in some horse fly traps. Lighter-colored fly sheets for horses are generally better for reflecting heat and discouraging landing.
Can I use essential oils as a primary horse fly repellent?
Essential oils like citronella, peppermint, and cedarwood offer some repellent qualities. They are a great choice for DIY horse fly remedies or for horses with very sensitive skin. However, they usually evaporate quickly and need reapplication every hour or two. They are best used alongside other methods, not as the sole defense.
How long does the horse fly season last?
The season varies widely by geography and weather. Generally, the peak season for horse flies starts in late spring (May or June) and lasts through the hottest part of summer, often tapering off significantly by early fall (September).
What is the best way to clean a bite wound from a horse fly?
Clean the area gently with mild soap and water or a veterinary antiseptic wash. Apply a soothing ointment. If the wound seems deep or isn’t healing, consult your vet, especially if you suspect disease transmission. Good hygiene is part of managing horse fly bites.